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Mochitsuki, a Japanese new year’s tradition, calls for families to gather and eat a chewy rice cake called mochi.

Many, like my family, ate frozen mochi, toasted, wrapped in nori and dipped in shoyu or like a dumpling in a bowl of good-luck soup called ozoni. I always thought if you didn’t choke to death on it, it was a good sign. It meant you’re alive for the upcoming year. Hence, health, happiness and good fortune. Also known as living to tell about it.

After spending many years among the smoky barbecue pits and Tex-Mex cuisine of the Lone Star State, living in Hawai’i offers an opportunity to witness mochitsuki, or traditional mochi pounding. This Japanese cultural tradition takes place during the holiday season and has for thousands of years. Mochitsuki in Hawai’i extends the family boundaries to include friends, neighbors and co-workers.

The takes it a step further. It offers demonstrations all over O’ahu during the holiday season. Kama’aina and visitors get an opportunity to see the hard work it takes to make the rice cake, in mostly the old-fashioned way.

Rev. Edna Matsuoka assumes the role of master of ceremonies. “Mochitsuki is a celebratory food item for unity, health, prosperity and good luck,” she tells the audience.

This labor of love takes days of preparation. Konko Mission of Wahiawa Head Rev. Yasuhiro Yano washes the mochigome and soaks it for one full day before steaming. His wife, Rev. Reiko Yano, makes the anko (sweetened red-bean paste from azuki beans). She also blesses each mochitsuki with a traditional song.

Mochitsuki symbolizes harmony and unity, Matsuoka says during the day’s second mochitsuki at the Japanese Cultural Center of Hawai’i on a recent Saturday. When you watch Yasuhiro Yano add water and turn the 10 pounds of mochi for Nick Furusho to alternately strike it with a kine, the harmony, unity and trust of working together becomes obvious.

The work is fast and furious. The mochi must remain hot to gel and stay malleable. Quickly after the mission volunteers step aside, participants are invited to try their hand at pounding. Care must be taken to alternate blows. Hitting other kine may cause splintering. Furusho keeps a sharp eye out for any potential detritus in the mochi. And, if a kine hits the steel usu, it could dent it and splinter the kine.

After the pounding, the 10-pound ball of mochi is put into a cutting device. Matsuoka cuts each piece as her husband, Clayton Matsuoka, cranks out the mochi.

The trays with fresh-cut mochi are spread out on two tables with waiting participants. Here, volunteers show how to make daifuku mochi, a type of Japanese confection with sweets. This day’s fillings include anko, peanut butter, Nutella and fresh strawberries.

After all the hard work, everyone enjoys the mochi the group created together, including sharing with the Civil Beat photographer whose sister still makes fun of him for once asking, “Dew y’all gaht ay-ney mow-chee?” with a heavy Texas drawl at a Japanese grocery store in North Dallas.