Ƶ

Nathan Eagle/Civil Beat/2024

About the Author

Catherine Toth Fox

Born and raised on Oahu, Catherine Toth Fox is an editor, writer, children’s book author, blogger and former journalism instructor. She is currently the editor at large for Hawaii Magazine and lives in Honolulu with her husband, son and two dogs. You can follow her on Instagram @catherinetothfox. Opinions are the author's own and do not necessarily reflect Civil Beat's views.

Visiting the whole island can help stimulate the local economy, still reeling nine months after the fires.

At the end of April, I visited the Westin Maui Resort & Spa on the sunny coast of Kaanapali, about 3 miles north of Lahaina. The high-end hotel had just wrapped up a $160 million transformation and invited media to tour the property.

And it was everything you’d expect a multimillion-dollar renovation would look like: an infinity-edged cocktail pool in one of its renovated towers, spacious cabanas complete with chaise lounges and flat-screen TVs, gorgeous suites with sweeping views of the ocean.

And yet, even now, at the beginning of what should be the busiest season for travel to the islands, the property — and the surrounding beach and shops — weren’t busy at all. Let’s just say there weren’t any long lines at Ulu Kitchen, the new restaurant by chef Peter Merriman at the hotel, and finding a secluded spot on the typically busy Kaanapali Beach was surprisingly easy.

Travel to Maui was down 25.5% in March compared to last year, according to the Hawaii Tourism Authority. Visitor spending and hotel occupancy on Maui are down, too. While U.S. visitor arrivals to Maui were the highest it’s been since the deadly August 2023 wildfires — in the wake of the fire, arrivals by air to Maui had dropped to as much as 51.4% — the numbers are significantly down from where they should be.

Honestly, I had mixed feelings about visiting West Maui. At the time it had been about nine months since the wildfires destroyed the oceanfront town of Lahaina, killing at least 101 people and displacing thousands more. Right outside the hotel, the Lahaina Strong group had been occupying Kaanapali Beach as part of its Fishing for Housing initiative, urging government officials to find long-term “dignified housing” for fire survivors. (The group ended its occupation of the beach after I left.)

And here I was, enjoying a mai tai steps from their encampment. To say I was conflicted was an understatement.

But the folks at the hotel, many of them personally affected by the wildfires, assured me my visit was wanted — and needed.

“It’s personal, sacred, spiritual to people,” explained Jared Kahaialii, the hotel’s assistant spa director whose family home was destroyed. He ran the donation hub at the hotel, which provided housing to more than 250 displaced residents. He understands the importance of visitors returning to Maui to strengthen the county’s economy. “Just come back and be.”

A portion of Kaanapali Beach was occupied for months as part of a push for better housing after the Aug. 8 fires. The Lahaina Strong group ended its 175-day occupation of the beach after the state passed a bill giving the counties stronger authority to turn thousands of short-term rentals into long-term housing. (David Croxford/Civil Beat/2023)

Last month HTA launched Makaukau Maui, a campaign to revitalize Maui’s economy by signaling that the island is ready to welcome visitors back. (Kahaialii is featured in this campaign.) But I’ll be honest, I found it difficult to make the 50-minute drive from Kahului to Kaanapali along the Lahaina Bypass, past more than 100 white crosses and Hawaiian flags erected along the hillside overlooking the leveled town, each one representing a life lost. You know Lahaina is there, the once-vibrant and culturally significant place, with homes and schools and people, and it’s gone. It’s a weird feeling.

I waited for the online hate to come at me. I follow an account that recently reposted Instagram photos taken at off-limit sites on Maui, including Kaihalulu Beach (aka Red Sand Beach) and Honomanu Bay, and shamed the violators. Another IG friend, , got hate for posting a photo at the Kahului location of Krispy Kreme, a mainland-based franchise and not a locally owned bakery. And I was hanging out in a fancy cabana within view of the Fishing for Housing tents. I wondered what people would say.

Turns out, I didn’t get any comments or DMs attacking my decision to spend a day in Kaanapali. In fact, I had more questions about my visit. People wanted to know what the area was like (great), were places still closed (yes) and if visitors were welcome (for sure).

West Maui is getting a lot of help, from the passage of that could lead to the county phasing out short-term rentals in apartment districts as soon as 2026 to Gov. Josh Green allocating $362 million in emergency appropriations to support Maui relief efforts. Visiting Maui — and spending money, even at Krispy Kreme — helps a lot, too. As one hotel employee told me, “I already lost my home. I can’t lose my job, too.”

An art boutique in Hana. (Nathan Eagle/Civil Beat/2023)
West Maui needs support still, but it’s important not to forget about the rest of the island’s needs. (Nathan Eagle/Civil Beat/2023)

But I wonder about the rest of the island. So much attention is focused on West Maui — understandably so — but what about Hana, Wailuku and Makawao? With much of the county’s proposed budget funding projects associated with the wildfires — housing, infrastructure, roads, personnel — other Maui towns may be getting sidelined.

I don’t disagree that West Maui needs the support right now. But the island operates as a whole; someone who lost their home in Lahaina could now be living in Haiku and working in Paia. If visitors aren’t coming to Maui, they’re not buying banana bread at Halfway to Hana in Keanae or tasting wine at MauiWine in Ulupalakua. They’re not staying in hotels where residents work or shopping in boutiques that residents own — anywhere.

Deniz posted the negative comment she got about Krispy Kreme — from a non-resident, strangely enough — on Instagram, responding with a list of all the other Maui businesses she patronized, including Takamiya Market, Kula Country Farms, Wailuku Distillery and Alii Kula Lavender.

“I’m sorry you feel this way,” she wrote. “I’m proud to spend my money in a franchise that employs local residents who live on Maui. I’m sure the locals who work at Krispy Kreme are grateful that us locals still spend our money there.”

In the comments section, a user, @itsfayebulous, responded: “Thanks for this! My mom works at Krispy Kreme Maui as a food processor and the whole store is locally operated despite being a national franchise.”

“When I got that comment,” Deniz said to me, “my heart was literally full.”

Maui — not just West Maui — could use the economic boost, period. So spend — or vacation — wisely.

Civil Beat’s coverage of Maui County is supported in part by a grant from the Nuestro Futuro Foundation.


Read this next:

Beth Fukumoto: What State Party Conventions Tell Us About The Functioning Of Democracy


Local reporting when you need it most

Support timely, accurate, independent journalism.

Ƶ is a nonprofit organization, and your donation helps us produce local reporting that serves all of Hawaii.

Contribute

About the Author

Catherine Toth Fox

Born and raised on Oahu, Catherine Toth Fox is an editor, writer, children’s book author, blogger and former journalism instructor. She is currently the editor at large for Hawaii Magazine and lives in Honolulu with her husband, son and two dogs. You can follow her on Instagram @catherinetothfox. Opinions are the author's own and do not necessarily reflect Civil Beat's views.


Latest Comments (0)

The word has gotten out among vacationers that the Maui County government and some vocal locals do not want tourists that can’t afford the outrageous hotel prices….those that prefer to rent a short term rental (STR) condo with a kitchen. The publicity over the proposed STR ban has had a big negative effect. It’s sad to see the island so empty now of tourists. Rental managers of STR condos are complaining of lean future bookings due to lack of interest in Maui and because of rising rental prices due to the increased property taxes on STRs (higher than what hotels pay). Much of the current and upcoming economic pain could be avoided with a competent government that doesn’t inject so much uncertainty and cost into an already tough situation after the Lahaina fire.

Menehune · 8 months ago

Actually, the end of April is typically a slow time on Maui! It's the lull before the summer rush, which usually starts around mid June. Yes, numbers are down, but I think your expectations were a little off.The STR "ban" won't go anywhere but the courthouses. It's an enormous waste of taxpayer money, that could be better spend actually helping people build and rebuild. Mahalo for your article, and yes--Maui and West Maui both welcome respectful and kind visitors.

MauiLolo · 8 months ago

I fear the ban on short term rentals is going to hurt Maui in the end. The STRs ie: rooms, studios, 1 bed apts, are not the type of housing that the Maui fire victims are seeking. They are seeking real "homes" . The Maui fire victims are even turning down offers of housing through FEMA because they don’t meet their needs so why would they want a studio or 1 bedroom condo? The STRs provided a place to stay for the many visitors who can no longer afford the exorbitant hotel rates on Maui. And it also helped the owners of the STRs afford to live on Maui with a little extra income. The visitors booking these STRs are also spending lots of money on Maui, too, (food, restaurants, entertainment, shopping, sightseeing tours, etc) thereby also contributing to the Maui tax base. I mean, even the little mom and pop hotels in Kahului are now $300/nite. Who can afford that? Gone are the days when a kama’aina could grab a $69/nite at the Maui Seaside in Kahului for the weekend. I have a friend staying there now and she’s paying $300/nite. I think it’s sad that the average tourist is getting priced out of Maui. I’m sure the hotels are loving it, though.

MauiAloha · 8 months ago

Join the conversation

About IDEAS

IDEAS is the place you'll find essays, analysis and opinion on public affairs in Hawaii. We want to showcase smart ideas about the future of Hawaii, from the state's sharpest thinkers, to stretch our collective thinking about a problem or an issue. Email news@civilbeat.org to submit an idea.

Mahalo!

You're officially signed up for our daily newsletter, the Morning Beat. A confirmation email will arrive shortly.

In the meantime, we have other newsletters that you might enjoy. Check the boxes for emails you'd like to receive.

  • What's this? Be the first to hear about important news stories with these occasional emails.
  • What's this? You'll hear from us whenever Civil Beat publishes a major project or investigation.
  • What's this? Get our latest environmental news on a monthly basis, including updates on Nathan Eagle's 'Hawaii 2040' series.
  • What's this? Get occasional emails highlighting essays, analysis and opinion from IDEAS, Civil Beat's commentary section.

Inbox overcrowded? Don't worry, you can unsubscribe
or update your preferences at any time.