天美视频

Civil Beat/2011

About the Author

Ellen Sofio

Ellen Sofio is a family practice physician with a strong interest in environmental and public health advocacy and social justice. She grew up in Manoa.


As children in the late 1960s my sister and I had the good fortune to experience the last of rural Manoa.

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We were entrusted with the feeding, grooming and exercising of several horses. One of the owners, 鈥淯ncle鈥 Jerry as we came to know him, was very kind and generous, loved animals and nature. He recalled from his own childhood, the days when funeral processions made their way past his family home on East Manoa Road towards the Chinese cemetery.

Those were magical times. The landscape held an abundance of guava and mango and mountain apple trees and vast thickets of wild hale koa. Farther up in the ko鈥檕lau hills, the fragrant and rare rose apples grew.

Other young people frequented the area on horseback including the Teves boys who rode western and whose rumored skill at roping and barrel racing we admired. Freckles, one of the Teves patriarchs, the pound master of Manoa, would make us laugh when driving by our house on University Avenue on his way out of the valley, by blowing his truck鈥檚 owoooga horn.

There were other young girls who also rode horses in the valley. Some of them kept their animals in the forest surrounding the Manoa Chinese Cemetery, where the old stalls and paddock were tended by a jovial larger than life part Hawaiian man with blue eyes, Kelly Campbell, perhaps a denizen of the Royal house of Kawanakaoa.

Residents of the forest told me that the Hawaiians gave the land to the Chinese with the provision that it would only be used for burials. As a child, I felt intuitively that the forest at the Manoa Chinese Cemetery was an enchanted and sacred place, impenetrable and mysterious.

When I heard that the Lin Yee Chung Association planned to destroy this peaceful, historic gem to build a housing project, I found it devastating to contemplate. Over half a century since precious childhood memories of a wild, magical place had been forged, my grandmother, father and sister had been laid to rest near the tree lined edge of this beloved forest.

The dirt and gravel road that winds into the east side of the cemetery ends at an imposing tower of basalt rock. At its base is a massive porous black volcanic boulder, laced with moss and draped by jungle vines.

The ahu stands resolute, a staunch guardian of the forest just behind it. Ka鈥檃humanu 鈥 a shrine to the birds.

Nearby, kolea enjoy the tranquility of the grassy cemetery edge, white fairy tern manu 鈥榦 ku soar gracefully over the forest edge in pairs and threesomes, their beautiful wings spread against an azure sky. Butterflies occasionally flutter from thickets of trees. And at night it is said, the endangered Hawaiian hoary bat roosts in the forest depths.

In researching Lin Yee Chung Association newsletters and a book by a former trustee and talking to Bruce Kehaulani, cemetery kahu, I discovered that King Kamehameha I and his favorite Queen, Ka鈥檃humanu, who became Regent of Hawaii after his death, had a house in the forest. The house is still standing.

Former LYCA president Sam Luke apparently used to talk 鈥渁ll the time鈥 about Ka鈥檃humanu and Kamehameha鈥檚 house in the forest to Malama Manoa historic preservation advocate and then president, Mary Cook. Sadly, both are now gone.

Manoa Valley Chinese Cemetery homes. 9 sept 2016
An unused part of the Manoa Chinese Cemetery is slated for an affordable housing project. Cory Lum/Civil Beat/2016

We who are still here must persevere to ensure the protection of our precious aina and heritage. Ka鈥檃humanu was arguably the most powerful woman in Hawaiian history next to Liliuo鈥檏alani. Originally from Maui, daughter of high chief Ke鈥檈aumoku, betrothed to Kamehameha as a young teenager, and his favorite wife, she came to Oahu and fell in love with Manoa Valley. After Kamehameha鈥檚 death in 1819, she was the catalyst behind the abolition of the kapu which allowed her and Keopuolani to eat with and advise the young male heirs to Kamehameha鈥檚 throne.

The Hawaiian population was being tragically devastated by imported contagious disease at this time. Ka鈥檃humanu oversaw the reigns of Liholiho and Kauikeaouli, Kings Kamehameha II and III, both young, inexperienced men when they acceded to the throne. She bravely navigated the turbulent times when missionaries, business men and U.S. military began to vie for power in the islands.

Ka鈥檃humanu was given the power of pu鈥檜honua by King Kamehameha I. By her person, she could provide refuge and protection from persecution or punishment. When she was dying in 1832, historical accounts detail how she was carried on her bed from Waikiki into her beloved Manoa Valley.

Amongst her last words were that she wanted to go 鈥渢o the mansion.鈥 The 鈥渕ansion鈥 was 鈥淧ukaomaomao,鈥 her house in the forest named for the green shutters Ka鈥檃humanu had acquired from the missionaries in the style of those still visible at the King Street mission houses.

The Manoa Chinese Cemetery forest is a sacred historic pu鈥檜honua, an oasis of tranquility which should be treated with reverence for eternity. With nonprofit funding and perhaps National Historic Register designation, the common buildings of the cemetery could be preserved in perpetuity and used as gathering places for children and adults alike to learn on site about the rich and fascinating historical legacy of the area.

This magical place, the mana of which was acknowledged by a 19th century Chinese metaphysician, should be cherished and preserved as a meeting place to cultivate and perpetuate deep knowledge of Hawaiian history and Chinese history in the islands, to inspire children and adults towards stewardship of nature, tolerance and the fostering of world peace.

Community Voices aims to encourage broad discussion on many topics of community interest. It鈥檚 kind of a cross between Letters to the Editor and op-eds. This is your space to talk about important issues or interesting people who are making a difference in our world. Column lengths should be no more than 800 words and we need a photo of the author and a bio. We welcome video commentary and other multimedia formats. Send to news@civilbeat.org. The opinions and information expressed in Community Voices are solely those of the authors and not Civil Beat.


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About the Author

Ellen Sofio

Ellen Sofio is a family practice physician with a strong interest in environmental and public health advocacy and social justice. She grew up in Manoa.


Latest Comments (0)

My grandfather, grandmother, father, uncle(s) are buried at Manoa Chinese cemetery. My family have a few more plots reserved for more family member to be buried there in the future. If I recall right, the Cemetery's Board was looking for ways to sustain the cost to maintain cemetery and therefore sought a solution to keep the upkeep the thousand of grave plot. If the community plans to block this effort, will the government subsidize the cemetery for any deficit? Hopefully the Manoa community, Ka芒聙聶ahumanu's trust, or City should give this cemetery funds to upkeep its facility. Win win for everyone, no more development and historic cemetery can kept Magical. We dont want another abandoned cemetery go to waste.

whiteforest · 2 years ago

Thank you Ellen, for telling us such a such a wonderful story! You芒聙聶re blessed. The people at Moiliili Japanese Cemetery are doing an outstanding job of revitalizing an urban cemetery and meeting modern day, real world challenges like vandalism芒聙娄On the Hamakua Coast there are a number of cemeteries in different stages of recovery from jungle growth. Energy is centered in Hakalau-Wailea! All volunteers! In Honoka芒聙聶a, the original ownership group that cleared the jungle so the old Japanese cemetery became walkable and visible from the Honoka芒聙聶a-Waipio Road has a full slate of critical tasks in its future. Btw this cemetery 芒聙聵s on the National Register of Historic Places! Like you Ellen, we芒聙聶re committed to being good trustees of our cultural-historic-religious treasures! (Not Spam. I芒聙聶m a real person.)

George3 · 2 years ago

Beautiful images of a sacred spot and a queen beloved by her king. These are the places we should be protecting.Souls at rest should remain in their resting realm. There are other lands for true affordable housing. After all, how 'affordable' Will any homes built in Manoa be? Probably not very. Let the souls and the history rest. It's time to act like we live in a place with the rich cultural significance that our home truly has.

mamamata · 2 years ago

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