From A Sleepy Surf Shop To A Muckraking Mag: One Woman’s North Shore Odyssey
Longtime resident Karen Gallagher, who once owned a legendary surf shop at Sunset Beach, brings an old school mindset to her entrepreneurial pursuits.
Karen Gallagher started the magazine Paumalu Press more than 15 years ago to inform her rural North Shore community about an impending development, a topic she鈥檚 had plenty to write about in the years since.聽
鈥淚鈥檓 sure the developers don鈥檛 really like me or the magazine,鈥 she says. 鈥淏ut if they did like me or my magazine, I鈥檇 be doing something wrong I think.鈥澛
The 61-year-old Gallagher is part of the famous Van Dyke surf family, but it would be a mistake to say that鈥檚 her only claim to fame. She鈥檚 been a fixture of the community in her own right for decades, 听颈苍 who reference a surf聽 shop she used to own as helping them get their starts.
Neither the surf shop nor the magazine have been the most financially stable ventures 鈥 a fact she鈥檇 be the first to admit.
But in a place many now consider overrun with outside money, her approach is a reminder of — and a call to return to — the North Shore鈥檚 old way of life.
Sunset Beach Surf Shop
Gallagher grew up in Santa Cruz, where she surfed the same chilly waters that spawned the wetsuit company O鈥橬eill. She moved to the North Shore of Oahu when she was 17, first renting her uncle鈥檚 house before moving in with some other Santa Cruz transplants.
It鈥檚 no secret that the North Shore鈥檚 surf scene, especially in decades past, is a place where local respect is highly valued 鈥 so it helped that Gallagher鈥檚 “Uncle Fred” was Fred Van Dyke, who had moved to Hawaii in the 1950s and .
But even with this head start, she said, she always sought to show respect to locals when out on the waves.
She worked in surf shops and then, with a loan from her father, bought Sunset Beach Surf Shop when she was 19, operating what was then Oahu鈥檚 only surf shop north of Haleiwa for 14 years before it was looted and burned in 1995.聽
Flanking some of the world鈥檚 most famous waves 鈥 along with Kammie鈥檚 Market, 鈥 its location along the region鈥檚 main arterial road would be prime real estate today.聽
But 40 years ago?
鈥淚t was dead,鈥 said Gallagher. 鈥淪ummers, nobody came to the North Shore 鈥 I mean, my surf shop, I could fall asleep.鈥
She鈥檇 go to the back for this, waking up to the 鈥渃lunk clunk鈥 of her shop’s 8-track cassette player as it switched songs and peeking to see if any customers had entered. The answer was often no.聽
Business was not always booming, but she tried to make the most of it. In the early 1980s, a young local boy named Rainos Hayes 鈥 who later became Billabong鈥檚 Hawaii team manager 鈥 came into Sunset Beach Surf Shop with his friend Tom Wojotowicz. Gallagher sponsored the two of them as inaugural members of her surf team.
鈥淚t was really fun,鈥 she said.
Along with free and discounted gear, 鈥淚鈥檇 give them a T-shirt and a sticker they鈥檇 put on their board, and they were on the team. It was neat, because it gave them a lot of pride.鈥
Hayes remembers the experience fondly.
鈥淭here weren鈥檛 a lot of role models out here back then, and there weren鈥檛 a lot of options. And her helping us was just a way of being positive in an environment that wasn鈥檛 guaranteed the most friendly,鈥 he said.
Soon Gallagher had a legion of kids 鈥 she thinks it was close to 20 over the years 鈥 representing Sunset Beach Surf Shop.
A few of them, like Pancho Sullivan and Shawn Briley, eventually even became professional surfers.聽
For local kids who liked to surf but didn鈥檛 have much money, said Briley, 鈥渟he was by far the biggest supporter.鈥 He continued sticking the Sunset Beach Surf Shop sticker on his board even after going pro.
The good times didn鈥檛 last forever. In 1995, after the shop was looted and burned, Gallagher 鈥 reeling from that and from other personal difficulties 鈥 moved back to Santa Cruz for a year.聽
But after surfing the North Shore for so long, how could she be content anywhere else?
Her young daughter in tow, Gallagher returned to Hawaii with few possessions and stayed with a friend while getting back on her feet.
She didn鈥檛 think much about reopening her surf shop; that was a past life.聽
And anyway, she said, it 鈥渨asn鈥檛 like it was a real money-making venture, not back then. There wasn鈥檛 anybody out here 鈥 It鈥檚 really a whole different North Shore.鈥
People have their own theories as to when and why the shift occurred.
Some of the details differ 鈥 Gallagher thinks 9/11 made American tourists want to travel more domestically, for example 鈥 but the consensus seems to be that more people have wanted to experience the North Shore during the past couple decades.
Tourism grew. In 2006, Turtle Bay resort looked set to expand its footprint, which many residents feared would translate into further strain on their already inadequate infrastructure. It seemed hopeless to oppose, because the permits 鈥 it was thought 鈥 had already been issued.
鈥淎nd then I got invited to a Defend Oahu Coalition meeting, the Keep the Country Country people, and found out that it wasn鈥檛 a done deal,鈥 said Gallagher. 鈥淭hey didn鈥檛 have all the permits. And so we鈥檙e like, 鈥楬ow do we get the word out?鈥欌
Paumalu Press
Paumalu Press 鈥 named after the ahupuaa (a division of land under Hawaii’s traditional resource management system) encompassing Sunset Beach 鈥 launched soon after, its first issue focusing on the resort鈥檚 proposed expansion around Kawela Bay.聽
In her opening editorial note, Gallagher introduced her newest entrepreneurial project:
鈥淲elcome to the first issue of the Paumalu Press. My name is Karen Gallagher, and it has long been a dream of mine to create a forum to present the challenges and solutions of our day to day lives,鈥 she wrote.
She鈥檇 thought about starting a magazine since working quiet days in her surf shop, she said. But not a surf magazine 鈥 something more civic, more involved with her community.聽
Paumalu Press is free and widely distributed. Gallagher drops off copies at the businesses that advertise within its pages, and at mom-and-pop shops in聽Central Oahu as far as Wahiawa and along the Windward Coast as far as Kahaluu.聽
Sometimes, when she gets enough advertising revenue, she鈥檒l go even further.聽
鈥淚鈥檝e taken them all around the island. I鈥檝e taken them out to Waianae side. Makaha. Kaneohe. Kailua. Randomly around town,鈥 she said.
Usually she鈥檒l talk to the store owners, but 鈥渢here are places I stealth ninja drop 鈥 you know, like Starbucks, Jamba Juice, stuff like that.鈥澛
A few hundred people even paid a $15 annual fee for direct delivery subscriptions.
With circulation between 3,500 and 7,000 copies, plenty of people read it, and with enthusiasm.聽
鈥淪he doesn鈥檛 pass herself off as a fabulous journalist, but what she does do is she鈥檒l go out and she鈥檒l have somebody who represents each side of an issue and invite them to write a story about it,鈥 said Bob Leinau, who鈥檚 lived on the North Shore for about 50 years.聽
鈥淚 mean, she鈥檚 a real hero,鈥 he said.
She likes to have fun with it, even if not everyone enjoys its coverage. In fall 2007, an anonymous letter was slid under the doors of many Paumalu Press advertisers.
鈥淒ear North Shore Business Owner,鈥 it reads. 鈥淚 recently picked up a copy of 鈥楶aumalu Press.鈥 I was stunned to see how unprofessional the publication has become.鈥
The letter-writer disagreed with how Gallagher covered vacation rentals, claiming that she was heavily biased against unpermitted rentals. It called for business owners to stop advertising in Paumalu Press.聽
Gallagher published the letter in the next issue. Beneath it, she published a response:
鈥淥kay, my turn. And I get to use a larger font for my side because it鈥檚 my magazine, and I鈥檓 unprofessional, so there!鈥澛
Gallagher argued that she had in fact provided space for all sides of the issue, adding a call to action to readers urging them to thank the advertisers who are 鈥渟tanding up for Paumalu Press, standing up for an alternative press, standing up for the little guys out here.鈥
All of this underneath the title 鈥淎NONYMOUS COWARD GOES AFTER THE PAUMALU PRESS.鈥
Not About The Money
Sometimes it鈥檚 hard to solicit pieces from all sides, she admitted recently 鈥 in fact, sometimes it鈥檚 hard to solicit pieces at all.
鈥淚鈥檝e been disappointed at how hard it is to get articles from people I think would be excited to contribute,鈥 she said. 鈥淏ut on the other hand, I don鈥檛 have any money to pay anybody. I go in the hole on a lot of the issues,鈥 adding that it typically requires about $7,000 in ad sales to break even.
鈥淎nd I don鈥檛 always get them, because I鈥檓 a terrible ad salesperson,鈥 she said.
But it鈥檚 not really about the money. Even when she was running Sunset Beach Surf Shop, her surf team of kids was likely costing her money, she said.聽
She at least partially attributes this philosophy to her membership in the Baha’i faith, which she says prioritizes generosity in contrast to the American edict to amass wealth.
“In America, you’re not supposed to be happy unless you’re rich and own your own house. I’m never going to own my own house,” she said.
Her sister Kristina Marquez, who Gallagher rents with, is similar.
“As far as business goes, I’ve made nothing but poor, horrible decisions my whole life,” said Marquez. “But I don’t care.”
It’s only the experiences money can buy that are worth something, she said — taking a spontaneous road trip from Santa Cruz up to San Francisco, or staying a night in Waikiki with her husband when his health was failing.
“Those are the times that I hold so close to me, that I’m so glad that I did. You know, rather than saving it … I think because we lost our mom so young, we both have a really bad attitude about money,” Marquez said, laughing.
So much has changed for Gallagher throughout her life. The North Shore she fell in love with doesn鈥檛 exist anymore. She鈥檚 even thought about leaving clogged Kam highway for a better life within Molokai鈥檚 Baha’i community 鈥 but there鈥檚 a sense of kuleana that keeps her from making the jump, she said.
鈥淚t’s kind of funny. There was this cartoon back when I was a kid, and it had all the, I think it was Hanna-Barbera characters, and they were all in this area and it was all full of trash and smoke and smog. And they’re like, 鈥極h, we need to go someplace nice.鈥櫬
鈥淎nd so they all got in their balloons and stuff and they flew and they went to another place, and it was all beautiful with trees and stuff. And then after a while, it got ugly, and they got up and they moved again 鈥 And then finally they said, 鈥極h, I know 鈥 .鈥欌赌
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About the Author
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Ben Angarone is a reporter for Civil Beat. You can reach him at bangarone@civilbeat.org.