M. Edward Weidenbach is a former curator and historian for the Battleship Missouri Memorial and author of 鈥淭he Airman鈥檚 Club and Other Remembrances.鈥
Demolition has once again come to the heart of Keeaumoku Street. Very soon The Park at Keeaumoku will tower 400 feet over this low-key, low-rise neighborhood.
I arrived in 1974. For $12, I spent my first night at the 11-story Biltmore Hotel, built in 1959, the first high-rise in Waikiki. Later that year I watched the implosion bring her down to make way for the 42-story Hyatt Regency Waikiki.
I spent my last 52 cents on chili-rice from the snack shop by the beach. The next morning I joined other day-labor hopefuls at “Checkers & Pogos” in Kakaako. For eight hours of work, we earned $14.70, paid daily, unloading shipping containers and laboring at all kinds of small homegrown businesses all over Kakaako, Kapalama and Kalihi.
I moved to a rooming house on Beretania just down the street from Taniguchi Market. Monthly rent was $85. Back then I could get by on what little I earned.
My first full-time job was night-shift at a photo lab hidden among the bars and bistros along Keeaumoku Street, where twin towers will soon break ground.
We took our break at Diner鈥檚 Drive-In, where the Walmart parking lot is today. My co-worker introduced me to Kalua Pig & Cabbage, with ketchup. Sometimes we played Space Invader before heading back to work.
Up the block at Tanabe鈥檚 Superette, I had my first lau-lau, poke, and Spam musubi. Down at the bottom of the block was C.S. Wo鈥檚 furniture store with its little clock tower. In between and all around the area were small local businesses, the kind that built dreams and supported families, the kind where a new kid in town could get a fresh start.
Pig Pens Where Walmart Now Stands
Long before I came to town, long before there was a Diner鈥檚 Drive-In, there was a rice mill with attached workers’ quarters, a separate kitchen and a few pig pens nearby where the Walmart parking lot is today. The mill was powered by an elevated water flume that ran down from an artesian well on King Street between the Toyo Macaroni Factory and a 鈥渕oving picture鈥 theater.
At that time, Keeaumoku ended at King Street, Kapiolani Boulevard didn鈥檛 yet exist and Sheridan continued all the way down to the Ala Moana coastal road.
In those days, much of the area makai of King Street was lowland bordering wetlands, used to grow taro and rice, and there were fish and duck ponds, and banana groves and vegetable plots, and farmers and their families in small single dwellings or two and three unit row-houses, living determined, fragile lives.
In 1906, Massachusetts transplant Lucius E. Pinkham, president of the Territorial Board of Health, proposed reclamation of the Waikiki District. Using sanitation as justification, lands were acquired, tenants removed, dwellings destroyed, and the wetlands drained, filled and converted to higher-valued real estate.
Pinkham envisioned the area becoming home to a more 鈥渄esirable population鈥 those of 鈥減rivate fortune, who seek an agreeable climate and surroundings, and who expend large already acquired incomes rather than those who expect the community to furnish them the opportunity of earning a livelihood.鈥
By the time I arrived, the reclamation of Waikiki was ancient history. I didn鈥檛 realize then that development on Oahu was just beginning, that one day we would no longer see smoke rising from the cane fields in Ewa, that we would ever imagine we might lose the fight to keep the country, country, or that the thriving districts of small locally owned businesses and low-rise rentals that existed all over town would ever be at risk.
I never dreamed that one day high-rise luxury condos, built for everyone else but us, would block the trade winds and our view of the Koolau from the beach at Ala Moana.
In the midst of all the marketing jabber, we hear assurances of affordable, workforce housing.
The planners talk about confining high-rise development to an urban core. In the same breath they advocate transit oriented development along the entire 20-mile length of the rail. In the midst of all the marketing jabber, we hear assurances of affordable, workforce housing.
If the vast majority of all the units in all the rising condo towers all over town are market priced, designed and intended for the upper crust among us or those of independent means, where does that leave the real 鈥渨ork force鈥 of Honolulu and our coming generations?
If Kakaako and 鈥淢id-Town Ala Moana鈥 provide the example of what is coming down the pike, there will continue to be dramatic, irreversible change to our community. Locally owned small businesses will close, workers will lose their jobs and neighborhoods will be changed forever.
I miss the Kalua Pig & Cabbage at Diner鈥檚, and I鈥檒l miss the oxtail soup at Asahi Grill, but most of all I鈥檒l miss the low-key, low-rise, everyone-knows-everyone, caring community that I鈥檝e known.
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Nice nostalgic recounting of the Kaka'ako and Honolulu before all the concrete., however, change is inevitable and it is happening where it should, in the urban core. You can argue about the definition of affordable, but that formula is set by our competent local government, so therein lies your gripe. The city has given out it's stamp of approval for all TOD designated development even if it is located miles from the actual rail line. And we are not even certain if that rail line will ever get to Ala Moana as originally planned a decade and $6B dollars ago. What we are certain of is that development will continue because that was what rail was all about from the very start. Admitting that brings truth and clarity of what is to come into focus. Until the state allows the rezoning of agricultural lands for housing, we are stuck with building up the urban core. And even if and when that happens, there are those NIBYS that will balk about it.
wailani1961·
2 years ago
I beat you to Hawaii by a few years (1968). I enjoyed your nostalgic look backward. What your article doesn't do though is suggest a way forward. That's the hard part. I do know our lackluster governor, our corrupt legislators and our money-grubbing development companies don't give me much confidence that any of the sad issues you outline will get solved any time soon. When are we going to have some real LEADERSHIP in this state?? Is everybody (who relies on local wages) going to be living in a tent before someone acts?
DenniS·
2 years ago
Being able to live with a roof overhead is more important than nostalgia to me. :)The entire reason housing prices are going up is that we don't have enough of it.Rich people will always be able to afford housing. But if we don't build enough on the high-end, they'll be competing with all the middle-class people on the next level down, pushing up prices there and kicking the poorer people down even further to the bottom (or out of the state).Every single unit of housing adds to the supply market, regardless of cost, easing price pressures everywhere.Better to put all these new units in an area that won't contribute to traffic as much as other areas (walkable areas mean some trips get taken on foot).Lastly, a new unit of housing for a rich person doesn't hurt a middle-class or poor person at all, unless it's replacing cheaper units. But most of these new high-rises are on former parking lots! Or very old retail spaces. No one is losing out anything (except perhaps "views" in one small area), but hundreds more families have a place to live, preventing prices from rising as fast elsewhere.
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