Chinatown Rising: Businesses Are Finding Cool New Homes Amidst The Pandemic
Despite restrictions that have hindered business and a growing homeless population, businesses are moving into Honolulu’s arts and entertainment district.
Opening or expanding a business during a pandemic might seem like a bold move, especially setting up shop in an arts and dining district where many businesses are closed and there鈥檚 a burgeoning population of homeless people.
But that鈥檚 exactly what Mahina Paishon-Duarte is doing. The social entrepreneur behind the co-work space on University Avenue is opening a new Waiwai annex on Nuuanu Street in Chinatown. It will be upstairs above Arts & Letters, a gallery and bookstore founded by arts impresario Wei Fang and Maile Meyer, founder of Native Books and Na Mea.
There鈥檚 a sense of optimism fueling her move.
鈥淗ope is what鈥檚 going to pull us through these tough times, very tough times,鈥 Paishon-Duarte said.
As hard as things are, she said, 鈥淚t doesn鈥檛 mean we鈥檙e going to stop connecting.鈥
And Paishon-Duarte isn鈥檛 alone. Chinatown is undergoing a metamorphosis amidst the COVID-19 crisis.
And it鈥檚 not all bad. Some existing businesses are hanging on, but with effort, thanks to a solid base of local customers. Others, like Paishon-Duarte鈥檚 are expanding into the neighborhood.
Down the block from Paishon-Duarte, fashion designer Roberta Oaks has relocated into a big corner space. And Paishon-Duarte is encouraged by other independent businesses she says are planning moves nearby: Morning Glass coffee and Mori by Art + Flea gift shop.
Others remain bullish on Chinatown. John Davenport, managing director of hospitality company, said the developer is moving ahead with plans to convert the historic Wo Fat Building into a restaurant and boutique hotel.
鈥淲e hope to be under construction in the first part of next year,鈥 he said.
In another time, such movement might be part of the natural ebb and flow of commerce. But the COVID-19 crisis has been characterized mostly by ebb. An estimated 25% of Hawaii鈥檚 small businesses have shut down, and more could follow, Carl Bonham, executive director of the , told a Hawaii House of Representatives committee on Monday.
Chinatown is no exception. In fact, few neighborhoods have been harder hit, says Chu Lan Shubert-Kwok, founder of the . Prominent spots like , which brought scores of diners down to Smith Street nightly, are reduced to doing take-out only. Even , the critically acclaimed restaurant, is closed but offering high-end take-out dinners three times a week.
Meanwhile, Shubert-Kowk says, there are more homeless people on the streets, and not what she calls the 鈥渂enign鈥 folks who mostly left others alone before COVID-19.
鈥淣ow we have the criminal elements,鈥 said Shubert-Kwok, who is also a member of the Chinatown Neighborhood Board. 鈥淭he violent aspect, the attacks and assaults, has increased a lot.鈥
In this context, new businesses are unusual, and Shubert-Kwok is happy to see people moving in.
鈥淭hese shops that are opening on Nuuanu 鈥 it鈥檚 very encouraging,鈥 she said.
But it’s hardly a renaissance. In fact, the street atmosphere in Chinatown is noticeably different than before the pandemic, when patrons going to bars and restaurants filled the sidewalks. On a recent Saturday night, there were none of the pre-COVID crowds. In fact, to Shubert-Kwok鈥檚 point, there seemed to be more people loitering, presumably homeless, than strolling to eat or drink or listen to live music.
Still, a number of places were brimming with customers 鈥 at least as much as a business can brim in a time of social distancing. Take F锚te, a restaurant on the corner of Nuuanu and Hotel streets.
F锚te had customers seated outdoors at sidewalk caf茅 tables, indoors in the main dining room and upstairs in an intimate, den-like overflow room with a handful of tables and a wall of books. The rooms were alive with the murmur of conversation and the tinkling of glasses and plates.
The extra seating allowed F锚te to generate about 60% of the business it would before COVID-19, says Chuck Bussler, the restaurant鈥檚 co-owner.
That鈥檚 not great, Bussler says, but 鈥渋t鈥檚 survivable.鈥
Bussler said he鈥檚 grateful that the city has allowed sidewalk dining for the first time. But he said he wished the city would do more to help businesses, to focus less on following bureaucratic processes than reaching objectives.
鈥淗ow can we get our political leadership to engage more on getting things done?鈥 he said.
Business owners certainly seem to be doing their part to adapt, to stay open and get things done. A few doors down from F锚te on Hotel Street, the atmosphere at was what might be called 鈥淐OVID busy,鈥 which is to say it was fairly full and lively, but with tables spaced far apart and parties limited to a maximum of five.
The Manifest normally has a capacity of 100, but the city鈥檚 COVID-19 rules reduce that to about 30, said Nicole Reid, who owns and operates The Manifest with her husband, Brandon. It鈥檚 nice to have people filling seats and generating some revenue, Reid says, but it鈥檚 hardly ideal 鈥 nothing close to full strength.
鈥淭his 鈥楥OVID busy,鈥 as you say, is like coming off a ventilator for us,鈥 she said.
The Manifest hasn鈥檛 had to pivot as much as some. It has an impressive bar of craft bourbons and single malt Scotches, but it also has a kitchen, which is key to being able to stay open as a caf茅 under city rules. And it serves coffee, sandwiches and light fare during the day and into the evening, enough, Reid says, to meet requirements that at least 30% of revenue come from something other than booze.
Like many businesses, The Manifest has expanded its takeout menu. And it鈥檚 come up with a creative solution to use its adjacent game room, the Royal Arcade Room, which can only operate at 25% occupancy since it has video games and a pool table. Rather than trying to police the occupancy rate, The Manifest rents the room for $5 an hour for a party of up to five.
鈥淲e鈥檙e pivoting in a sense,鈥 Reid said. 鈥淏ut it鈥檚 less of a neck whip for us.鈥
The question is how long places like The Manifest, and others that are worse off, can hang on with restrictions that limit their business and revenue.
鈥淲e鈥檙e seeing many of our best friends close down,鈥 she said.
This makes it all the more notable that businesses like the Waiwai Collective are moving into the neighborhood.
On Thursday, the space will hold its first event: an Awa & Art event featuring Manu Boyd, the kumu hula, activist and Grammy-nominated recording artist. Although limited to five people in person, the event will be streamed live on Facebook, Paishon-Duarte said.
It鈥檚 a small start, she says, and one adapted to COVID-19 restrictions. But it鈥檚 a start nonetheless.
鈥淲e鈥檙e going to have smaller gatherings,鈥 she said. 鈥淏ut it can be just as impactful.鈥
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About the Author
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Stewart Yerton is the senior business writer for 天美视频. You can reach him at syerton@civilbeat.org.