PRINCEVILLE, Kauai 鈥 When Yayun Cheng, a 23-year-old woman from Los Angeles, was swept off the rocks to her death at the famed Queen鈥檚 Bath tide pool early last month 鈥 as her horrified boyfriend watched 鈥斅 she became only its latest casualty.
Queen鈥檚 Bath, 聽is at once one of Kauai鈥檚 most alluring attractions and one of its deadliest. And the punishing, steep trail to the tide pool is the scene of frequent sprains, fractures, heart attacks and other medical crises, according to Dr. Monty Downs,聽who also spearheads Kauai鈥檚 rescue tube program.
It has also become the subject of a security arms race. The , which controls the parking area and entrance areas to Queen鈥檚 Bath, is continuously adding fencing, security and parking enforcement to enhance safety. Visitors, meanwhile, are quick to defeat any barriers put up to protect them.
To get to the trail, for example, visitors must walk past signage that warns: 鈥淒ANGER: MANY PEOPLE HAVE DROWNED HERE,鈥 and 鈥淰iolators may be cited, prosecuted and charged for rescue and recovery expenses.鈥
In fact, county spokeswoman Kim Tamaoka said, at least one person who required rescue at Queen鈥檚 Bath in 2016 was sent a bill 鈥 a practice that may become more common.
A padlocked pedestrian gate and about 75 feet of chain link fence stand ready to deter visitors. None of these precautions has shut down the regular arrivals of tourists who fill all 13 legal parking spaces at Queen鈥檚 Bath.
Even when the spot is at its most deadly 鈥 October through March 鈥 demand for parking is intense. One recent day, cars backed up six to eight deep on the street waiting for spaces and an argument broke out between two drivers over who got there first.
Cheng鈥檚 death was the fifth at Queen鈥檚 Bath in the last decade and there have been countless rescues of people swept off rocks by waves 鈥 often requiring lifeguards . Rescue calls to Queen鈥檚 Bath also require firefighters to rush from Hanalei and often venture onto the dangerous lava that encircles the tide pools to try to search for missing people.
Rory Enright, general manager of the community association, said it is largely powerless to control Queen鈥檚 Bath. The land the attraction sits on is privately owned, but the county has an easement for the trail and to provide visitor access to the tide pools.
The parking lot is county-owned, Enright said. But since the Kauai Police Department lacks the resources to pay much attention to parking violations and citing or arresting people who go through the pedestrian gate that is chained when Queen鈥檚 Bath is too dangerous to visit, much of the enforcement responsibility falls to Princeville鈥檚 single security patrol car.
Queen鈥檚 Bath, Enright estimated, accounts for half of the activity of the community patrol on many days, even though the patrol lacks legal authority to intervene in many dangerous situations that arise.
Safety Tips
Kauai County lifeguards and Mayor Derek Kawakami provided these safety tips for Queen鈥檚 Bath:
鈥 Don鈥檛 go there at all from October to March due to extremely dangerous surf conditions.
鈥 While at Queen鈥檚 Bath, do not turn your back on the ocean and expect extreme surf conditions at any time.
鈥 Pay close attention to surf conditions. Assume large waves may sweep the area without warning. Do not venture onto wet rocks.
鈥 Take extreme caution on the trail, especially at the stream that intersects it about halfway down. People have fallen down the stream bed and been severely injured.
鈥 In general, never go in the water at beaches unprotected by lifeguards. Queen鈥檚 Bath has no lifeguard station.
鈥 If you do get swept into the ocean, do not attempt to swim back to the rocks. Do not panic. Swim out to deeper water and await arrival of lifeguards. Wave your arms to attract attention of arriving rescuers.
Kauai Mayor Derek Kawakami, born and raised on the island, recalls that as a child he was forbidden to go to Queen鈥檚 Bath because it was too dangerous.
鈥淚 never went down there,鈥 the mayor said. 鈥淲e were taught from an early age to avoid trouble.鈥
Kawakami said he thinks the time may have come for the county to take a more aggressive approach to barring visitors during the dangerous wet season months.聽 He said a case can be made for simply barring tourists from going to Queen鈥檚 Bath at any time, though some accommodation would need to be made for local people who fish from the rocks when the water is calm.
Kawakami said he also favors reviewing county policies to impose charges for rescuing people who ignore warning and closure signs and hike to Queen鈥檚 Bath anyway. He did not identify specific changes in ordinances or procedures he may propose to the County Council.
鈥淨ueen鈥檚 Bath is depicted as sort of the forbidden fruit by the internet sites and the guidebooks,鈥 he said. 鈥淚 don鈥檛 know what more we can do when people are willing to take risks they shouldn鈥檛 take.鈥
Trying to tamp down the hype about Queen鈥檚 Bath this time of year, Kawakami said, 鈥渋s everybody鈥檚 kuleana at this point.鈥
The county already has billing authority, but records show only three rescues 鈥 all of them in 2016 鈥 have resulted in people who should have known better being billed when they got in trouble and needed county safety personnel to get them out of it. One of the incidents involved Queen鈥檚 Bath, two others were in Wailua, including one at Wailua Falls 鈥 another dangerous local attraction to which visitors gravitate despite clear warnings of unsafe conditions, according to the county’s Tamaoka.
She was unsure whether the bills were ever paid.
Enright, who spends more time than he would like preoccupied with problems at Queen鈥檚 Bath, as one of the core problems.
Civil Beat interviewed a dozen tourist parties 鈥 of two to four people each 鈥 as they made their way to or from Queen鈥檚 Bath on the trail last month.
Many had been attracted by tourist guidebooks that describe Queen鈥檚 Bath in such glowing terms that, Enright said, 鈥渋t鈥檚 like if you don鈥檛 visit Queen鈥檚 Bath, you haven鈥檛 experienced Kauai.鈥
鈥淚t鈥檚 an adventure and life鈥檚 an adventure,鈥 said Robby Anne Deblanc of Seattle.
Scott Quinn and his daughter, Megan, who recently completed college studies, were on a family vacation from Cincinnati. They鈥檇 left three other family members who were too nervous to go on the hike in the car.
Did they take the plunge?
鈥淵eah, we did,鈥 said Megan Quinn. 鈥淚t鈥檚 really beautiful.鈥
The Kauai Visitor and Convention Bureau maintains a 鈥渄o not promote鈥 list of places on Kauai that are most dangerous to tourists 鈥 and Queen鈥檚 Bath is prominent among them. The bureau even contacts people who post material that makes Queen鈥檚 Bath sound enticing and safe and ask that it be removed or modified.
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About the Author
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Allan Parachini is a freelance writer and furniture maker on Kauai. Email Allan at aparachini@civilbeat.org