PUNA, Hawaii Island 鈥 The in Lower Puna officially ended about four months ago, and the Federal Emergency Management Agency stopped accepting new registrations for eruption-related disaster aid back on聽.
But on Ala Ili Road, above Leilani Estates in Puna, steaming cracks are still opening up under people鈥檚 houses. Trees are dying, cooked from the roots up.
The cracks have forced neighborhood residents to leave at least three homes so far, and several more are threatened.
Beverly Vance moved out Jan. 13 after temperatures under her house rose to 144 degrees Fahrenheit and steam began spouting out the air pipe of her cesspool.
It鈥檚 her second evacuation. Last May, a huge steam vent opened in a meadow behind her house. A scientist from the investigated, and found ground temperatures near the boiling point of water.
“I asked her how long I should be here,鈥 Vance said. 鈥淪he said, 鈥楲eave within the hour.鈥欌
She and her three dogs lived for a while in her car, then went to stay with her daughters in Oregon before returning in August, about the time the lava flow ended.
But since then, cracks have spread from the original steam vent, creeping through the forest and onto her neighbors鈥 properties, and the temperatures in those cracks have been rising.
On Jan. 5, she noticed steam rising around a tangerine tree in her yard. She measured the temperature around its base at 119.3 degrees.
A week later, the temperature beneath the tree was 148 degrees. As of Thursday, it was 160.
The same day, at Steven Jacquier and Doran Vaughan鈥檚 permaculture farm next door, Jacquier was also taking the land鈥檚 temperature. He pointed a small hand-held device into a crack that had recently opened beneath a dying ulu tree and recorded a temperature of about 140 degrees.
He pointed sadly at a nearby clove tree that had been healthy only days before. Now the leaves were all drooping.
When they鈥檇 first moved here, he said, their land had been covered with an old-growth ohia forest. But 聽wiped out most of it, so they鈥檇 planted dozens of fruit and nut trees, oil palms and construction-grade bamboo. Now most of those trees are also dying.
鈥淲e sank tens of thousands of dollars into planting the farm,鈥 he said. 鈥淣ow that鈥檚 largely a loss.鈥
A retired professor who assists the University of Hawaii Hilo with rat lungworm research, Jacquier has been systematically logging temperatures on his land and Vance鈥檚 since last July.聽 The temperatures have been steadily climbing as the cracks and steam vents spread.
Civil Beat sent an email query about the situation along Ala Ili Road to Hawaii Volcano Observatory spokesperson Janet Babb, and got a pre-recorded message in response:
鈥淒ue to the lapse in appropriations, I am prohibited from conducting work as a Federal employee, including returning phone calls and emails, until further notice. If you urgently need to speak with someone at the USGS regarding emergencies or matters of protecting life and property, call (703) 648-7411 or (703) 648-7412.鈥
Minutes later, HVO Head Scientist Christina Neal called. While she said she was also not 鈥渙fficially鈥 at work, she noted that HVO was monitoring the situation on Ala Ili.
鈥淲e鈥檝e been sending geologists out weekly, tracking the activity,鈥 Neal she said, adding that HVO was in touch with residents there and would issue notifications and warnings if needed. But she said that there was 鈥渃ertainly no sign of magma nearing the surface there.鈥
鈥淭he rift zone is still adjusting,鈥 she said. 鈥淐racking isn鈥檛 too surprising.鈥
Neal said she couldn鈥檛 comment further about the shutdown. But the USGS website contains a聽 updated in September. It identifies 75 USGS employees who would be excepted from the shutdown because they were 鈥渘eeded to protect life and property.鈥 They include part of the staff of the National Earthquake Information Center, as well as employees of the Earth Resources Observation and Sciences Center, who keep the agency鈥檚 space satellites operational. An additional 450 would be 鈥渙n call as necessary to respond in the event of a natural disaster鈥.鈥
That 鈥渙n call鈥 list includes personnel at 鈥渧olcano observatories.鈥
From his conversations with HVO scientists, Jacquier believes a dike of magma under their land is radiating heat into the surrounding rock. That heat was now finally making its way to the surface, causing the new cracks and steam.
鈥淲hen the steam first appeared above Bev鈥檚 property, it was 121 (degrees). Now it鈥檚 up to 191,鈥 he observed. 鈥淓ventually it鈥檚 going to go up to 212 as the stone over the dike heats up.鈥
Vance has been sending temperature records to HVO scientist Carolyn Parcheta. When things started changing Jan. 5, Vance sent Parcetta an email, and also 鈥済ot an automated reply saying she wasn鈥檛 working. But then she emailed back anyway.鈥
Parcheta followed up with a visit in person Jan. 9.
HVO scientists and Hawaii County Civil Defense officials visited again Jan. 16. The scientists took infrared photos of the area, Vance said, and the Civil Defense officials 鈥渁sked what they could do for me.聽 The only thing I could think of was if my place was uninhabitable, if I could get county housing.鈥
Civil Defense chief Talmadge Magno told Civil Beat that if people had volcanic activity or volcano-related emergencies to report, 鈥淭hey can call us. We鈥檙e open.鈥
Magno also said that FEMA was 鈥渟till working the cases鈥 related to the eruption, despite the shutdown. Vance was already registered with FEMA because of her earlier evacuation.
But Jacquier and Vaughann haven鈥檛 found FEMA to be very useful.
The concrete slab foundation of their large home, which Jacquier jokingly calls 鈥淐astle Greyskull,鈥 has cracked apart, and the pieces are migrating slowly in different directions.聽 Sulfuric steam has damaged their roof and solar panels, and showers of ash and that rained down during the eruption wrecked their gutters.
The house could be repaired. 鈥淏ut is that really worth doing when at any moment, steam can come up through the living room floor and turn our whole house into the world鈥檚 largest dim sum basket? That鈥檚 actually happened to some of our neighbors,鈥 Jacquier said.
FEMA offered them a $47,000, 30-year loan, but Vaughan calculated that repaying it with interest over that time would cost $160,000 鈥 with no guarantee that Madame Pele would let them keep the house or even sell it.
And, Jacquier added, 鈥淭hey wouldn鈥檛 let us repair my late sister鈥檚 place in California so we could move there. They said, ‘no, you have to use it to repair the place here.’鈥
Like many volcano survivors, they鈥檙e also involved in a protracted fight with Lloyd鈥檚 of London to get action on their insurance claims. Lloyd鈥檚 sent an engineer to examine their home,聽 but they鈥檝e yet to see any payment.
Vance, 70, doesn鈥檛 have insurance. Her house is small and simple, and it doesn鈥檛 meet Hawaii鈥檚 building codes. She and her partner built it themselves before he died of cancer in 2006.
The land was 鈥渇or sale for a really good price before the boom, and my partner bought it for me. He thought it was my dream. This is my dream.鈥 she said, looking around the little house that she鈥檇 moved out of the night before.
She smiled wistfully.
鈥淢aybe it鈥檚 the universe telling me it鈥檚 time for a new dream,鈥 she said.
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About the Author
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Alan D. McNarie has been covering the Big Island's people and issues for various publications for over a quarter century. He's published two novels: "Yeshua" and "The Soul Keys." He lives in Volcano. Email Alan at amcnarie@civilbeat.org