HONAUNAU, Hawaii Island 鈥 Serving as a steward of the land is a traditional Hawaiian philosophy currently being practiced on a sacred site caught up in the federal government鈥檚 partial shutdown.
With the political impasse in Washington, D.C., now in its second month, a group of Hawaiian practitioners has increased its role caring for 聽on the Big Island’s west coast.
The volunteers, some of whom trace their linage directly to this 182-acre site, have become cultural interpreters, unofficial rangers and even custodians.
鈥淭here鈥檚 a sense of pride in this culture and respect for history and how this part of the world just differs,鈥 said Shaye Reilly, one of dozens of people who walked around a gate to visit the officially closed park on a recent day. That attitude doesn鈥檛 exist, Reilly said, in her Oklahoma community despite having an Air Force base employing federal workers.
The Hawaiian word聽pu’uhonua means a place of refuge, which is how this South Kona coastline was used before the first Western contact. Anyone who broke laws called kapu聽could avoid execution by reaching the area, the National Park Service writes on its Puuhonua O Honaunau website.
鈥淎s you enter, the great wall rises up before you marking the boundaries between the royal grounds and the sanctuary,鈥 adds the website left inactive by the shutdown. 鈥淢any kii (carved wooden images) surround the Hale o Keawe temple, housing the bones of the chiefs that infuse the area with their power or mana. If you reached this sacred place, you would be saved.鈥
Salvation wasn鈥檛 easy, however. Fugitives had to successfully navigate sharp lava, shark-patrolled waters and their pursuers just to reach the refuge, where they had to remain long enough to be sufficiently rehabilitated before attempting the return trek.
Today, a quick walk through the sacred grounds can leave visitors with 鈥渃hicken skin.鈥 Part of that experience is because of volunteers.
鈥淲e know that our presence is important for people who think this place has been abandoned,鈥 said Rae Godden, a lineal descendant of the area and board member of Na Hoa Aloha, a nonprofit 鈥渇riends of the park鈥 group she helped to create in 2006.
鈥淲e鈥檝e been helping the park all this time,鈥 she said. 鈥淲e鈥檙e still volunteering to help the park.鈥
The roughly 30-member group had kept a low profile while working with the National Park Service, but that changed following a highlighting overflowing trash, clogged bathrooms and site desecration that resulted from the government shutdown, Godden said.
鈥淲e just want people to know we鈥檙e here and we鈥檝e been here,鈥 she said.
Godden鈥檚 connection to Pu’uhonua O Honaunau is longstanding and deeply personal.
鈥淢y great-grandmother is buried on the heiau there,鈥 she said, adding her mother also lived on the land before becoming the first female Hawaiian ranger employed there once it became a park. Godden said she still attends religious practices at the site and also worked there as a ranger before retiring.
鈥淚f this was not given to the federal government, there would be one owner with a closed gate and no access,鈥 Godden said.
During a recent visit, park conditions were immaculate, with no rubbish visible, nearly empty trash and recycling bins, and fully functioning restrooms. The NPS has restored sanitation services at Pu’uhonua O Honaunau, Godden said.
At least two uniformed rangers patrolled the park, interacting with patrons while saying they were prohibited from talking with reporters. Park staff are not currently receiving paychecks.
An empty parking lot and locked gate were the only indications of the closure, enough to leave some visitors unsure about entering. For most, the hesitation was short-lived.
Among the Na Hoa Aloha members helping visitors was Kahakaio Ravenscraft, who wore traditional garments and carried a staff.
鈥淛ust about all of my days off, as much as possible, I鈥檓 coming down to the site,鈥 said Ravenscraft, another lineal descendant who also belongs to a nonprofit tasked with maintaining South Kona temples 鈥 heiau.
鈥淲e have to steward the spiritual practices of these areas,鈥 he said. 鈥淧art of the result of the shutdown has been a need to increase our presence. Our presence here is for 鈥 the bones that are put to rest on these grounds. We鈥檙e here for our ancestors.鈥
, including some Hawaiians who also share ancestral ties to Pu’uhonua O Honaunau, have recently conducted cleanups and performed security functions. This has displeased Na Hoa Aloha members, who feel the other groups lack standing and have shown disrespect.
鈥淭hey鈥檙e coming here and using the site without working with the National Park Service,鈥 Godden said. 鈥淪o, it鈥檚 starting to be a kanaka versus kanaka kind of thing.鈥
Ravenscraft agreed, saying it鈥檚 taken his group many years to reconnect people to the special place.
He said others are 鈥渃oming in without understanding the work their fellow kanaka have been doing鈥 while 鈥渉aving an air about them as if they鈥檙e trying to take over.鈥
Still, Ravenscraft said the shutdown provides a 鈥済reat opportunity鈥 for all of the park鈥檚 Hawaiian stakeholders to achieve unity 鈥 regardless of what鈥檚 happening in the nation鈥檚 capital.
鈥淭his place will never be abandoned,鈥 he said.
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About the Author
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Jason Armstrong has reported extensively for both of Hawaii Island鈥檚 daily newspapers. He was a public information officer/grant writer for the Hawaii County Department of Parks and Recreation from 2012 to 2016 and has lived in Hilo since 1987. Email Jason at jarmstrong@civilbeat.org