Down on North Hotel Street in Chinatown, where the old red-light-district joints have mostly been replaced by trendy spots where bearded hipsters sling craft cocktails, Smith鈥檚 Union Bar is a defiant holdout: an old-school Navy dive known for serious drinkers, cheap beer and raucous karaoke.
It鈥檚 a tradition that goes back to the 1940s, when Smith鈥檚 Union was the favored .
鈥淭his place is living history,鈥 said John Pfeiffer, an aviation chief with the Navy stationed in Honolulu, who was drinking at the bar on Thursday night. 鈥淔or us it鈥檚 where our brothers in arms would come down and throw back a few.鈥
鈥淪ailors come in here,” said Cory Weiss, a fellow Navy chief, “and they鈥檝e been doing it forever.鈥
But all that soon may change. Earlier this month, the bar鈥檚 owner, a former Navy submarine hunter named Dwight Lockwood, got some bad news. His lease had expired. And his landlord was increasing his rent, from about $2,800 a month to $5,144, starting Monday.
Lockwood fears it鈥檚 a prelude to getting kicked out and replaced by a trendy new spot like the ones across the street. His landlord, Allen Stack Jr., hasn鈥檛 been willing to renegotiate a new lease, Lockwood said. Stack declined to comment.
On a recent morning, as Hotel Street was waking up around 10 a.m., young professionals were hunkered over laptops drinking lattes and cold-brewed iced coffee at Manifest, a cafe and whisky bar that鈥檚 part of Hotel Street鈥檚 new wave of businesses. USA Today recently tapped Manifest as one of the 聽thanks to an array of single malt Scotches, ryes and small-batch bourbons. And for the morning crowd, there鈥檚 coffee locally sourced from a farm on Oahu鈥檚 North Shore.
Manifest鈥檚 morning clientele was a striking contrast to the early birds across the street at Smith鈥檚 Union. At 10 a.m. a half dozen regulars were lined up at the bar where Lockwood was sipping a Pabst Blue Ribbon in a bottle and the jukebox was belting out oldies. The morning customers are decidedly blue collar, Lockwood said, and he wonders if they鈥檒l fit in at the new neighborhood establishments if Smith鈥檚 Union shuts down.
鈥淭his is not a hipster bar,鈥 he says. 鈥淭his is real people having real drinks, making really bad decisions. It鈥檚 what we do.鈥
That sort of branding combined with the bar鈥檚 unique history has attracted a wide range of fans. The bar is featured on the 聽and has gotten raves from publications like the . Smith鈥檚 Union is prominently included . The Los Angeles Times featured the bar in a , one of the last living survivors of the attack on the USS Arizona and the bar鈥檚 most revered long-time patron.
In Bruner鈥檚 days, each battleship had a bar where its sailors drank; Smith鈥檚 Union was the bar of the Arizona.
鈥淟auren would say it鈥檚 exactly like it was in 1940,鈥 said Ed McGrath, another long-time fan who wrote a biography of Bruner.
鈥淚t鈥檚 not Iolani Palace or the Queen Emma鈥檚 Summer Palace,鈥 said Carter Lee Churchfield, who runs the WWII Red Light Walking Tour. 鈥淏ut it鈥檚 still important.鈥
Opened in 1935, Smith’s Union is believed to be the oldest operating bar in Honolulu. Its first owner was , a former merchant marine who leveraged his position as a Chinatown bar impresario to work as a political lobbyist.
鈥淭his is not a hipster bar. This is real people having real drinks, making really bad decisions. It鈥檚 what we do.鈥 — Dwight Lockwood, Smith’s Union Bar owner.
After Holley died in 2003, the bar changed hands and along the way, the name was changed to Smitty鈥檚 Smith Union. When Lockwood had the chance to buy the bar in 2017, one of the first things he did was restore the name to Smith鈥檚 Union Bar.
Whether the bar will live on isn鈥檛 clear. After being contacted by Civil Beat, the bar鈥檚 landlord finally reached out to the bar鈥檚 attorney, Lockwood said. But the barman still doesn鈥檛 know if they鈥檒l be able to work out a deal.
鈥淚 always wanted to own a bar,鈥 Lockwood said. 鈥淎nd it seemed like a sure thing.鈥
Now he鈥檚 not so sure.
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About the Author
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Stewart Yerton is the senior business writer for 天美视频. You can reach him at syerton@civilbeat.org.