Go into Scott 鈥淥tto鈥 McDonough鈥檚 bakery on a given day, and you鈥檒l find a half a dozen flavors of cheesecake, baked in a Sears home oven, sold by the slice for cash only and rung up on an old wooden register that鈥檚 hand-painted red with a yellow lightning bolt.
Otto Cake is a low-tech, do-it-yourself throwback to an era before words like 鈥渁rtisanal鈥 and 鈥渓ocally sourced鈥 became marketing catchphrases and 鈥溾 from companies like 听补苍诲 聽were on the constant prowl for funky brands eager to sell out.
McDonough said he鈥檚 been approached by investors offering to help him expand.
鈥淏ut,鈥 he said, 鈥渢hey realize I鈥檓 just not interested.鈥
McDonough鈥檚 story is the subject of a documentary film, 聽which is 聽this weekend at the Honolulu Museum of Art鈥檚 Doris Duke Theatre. Like Otto Cake, the film has a decidedly DIY feel. The filmmaker, , made it for less than $10,000, shooting it herself and putting it together with the help of an editor,聽.
The movie premiered at the Hawaii International Film Festival in 2017, and Cubero Del Barrio, who lives in Kailua, said she has submitted it to other festivals in the U.S. and Spain. Cubero Del Barrio鈥檚 other films have explored subjects like聽. She said she made 鈥淥ttomaticake鈥 because she found McDonough to be an engaging character with a universal story about creativity, perseverance and individuality.
鈥淚 knew he was choosing to be happy with the things he does,鈥 said Cubero Del Barrio, who is now working on a documentary about 聽in Buenos Aires, Berlin and New York.
Much of McDonough鈥檚 story is well-known to local foodies. When it opened on Smith Street in Chinatown in 2009, Otto Cakes bakery was in the early wave of hip eateries moving into a neighborhood long associated with Honolulu鈥檚 underbelly.
When McDonough stood up to the thugs and drug dealers on his block, the . The police weren鈥檛 much help. And after being repeatedly threatened and harassed, McDonough left and eventually 聽to Kaimuki.
All this is documented in the film, which has footage of apparent drug deals taking place in front of the bakery, and, in one sobering scene, a burly man lifting his T-shirt to show off a handgun tucked into his waistband. The police addressing merchants鈥 concerns at a neighborhood meeting say there鈥檚 not much they can do.
What鈥檚 less well known are aspects of McDonough鈥檚 character that Cubero Del Barrio weaves together in the film: his roller skating, playing bass in punk rock bands and ability to run a small business even though he cannot do complex math and is essentially illiterate. Above all, what comes through is McDonough鈥檚 creative spirit and grit. If the recipe for punk rock is three chords and a lot of spirit, then Otto Cake is the punk rock of baking, churning out desserts with a handful of ingredients and a lot of soul.
The notion of the DIY, punk rocker scratching out an independent living is something of a cultural archetype rooted in the 1980s and 鈥90s, says Rob Walker, a business journalist who writes about .
While hip hop artists like Sean 鈥淧uffy鈥 Combs might look to build brands like , with wide distribution in department stores, and the business media tend to idolize the businesses that can land venture capital to scale up, Walker said some entrepreneurs just want to make a living without working for The Man.
The small businesses tend to be viewed as 鈥渁rtists鈥 while the term 鈥渆ntrepreneur鈥 goes to the big shots, Walker said. But he said the line between entrepreneur and artist isn鈥檛 so clear.
Otto Cake 鈥渕ight seem punk rock,鈥 Walker said. 鈥淏ut it鈥檚 very traditionally American in a way.鈥
And McDonough?
“I’m definitely an artist,” he says.
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About the Author
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Stewart Yerton is the senior business writer for 天美视频. You can reach him at syerton@civilbeat.org.