Joshua Noga remembers preparations for a wedding held at Kalihi Valley Homes, the state鈥檚 largest public housing project, in the late-1980s.
He was 6 years old and picking breadfruit 鈥 his contribution to the dishes traditional to his Native Hawaiian and Samoan ancestry. At a church across the street, meat and vegetables were cooked in an imu for a feast that would feed 40 people.
鈥淢any of our families come from the villages in Samoa. So that鈥檚 what we were re-creating, a village type of atmosphere,鈥 said Noga. 鈥淚t was so beautiful.鈥
It was the type of event he wishes would happen more often these days.
Immigrant communities like the one Noga grew up in still populate Kalihi鈥檚 large public housing complexes. Crops grow well in the lush valley, but many of the working class residents in Kalihi don鈥檛 have access to fresh produce.
鈥淚t鈥檚 really tough in Hawaii to eat healthy,鈥 said Dr. Joseph Keawe’aimoku Kaholokula, 鈥渂ecause most people, especially those living in that area, sometimes work two jobs.鈥
A professor at the听University of Hawaii听,听Kaholokula researches chronic diseases among Native Hawaiians and Pacific Islanders.
Healthy food is either too expensive, too far away for people who rely on public transit, or it takes too long to prepare for people who work multiple jobs. Instead of fresh produce, Kaholokula says, meals served in Hawaii鈥檚 low-income households typically consist of white rice with canned meat.
, part of the nonprofit organization , is spearheading an听effort to make locally grown produce more affordable and accessible to Kalihi鈥檚 low-income communities.
The program鈥檚 staff sets up a stand at two weekly farmers markets in Kalihi, the Roots Double Bucks Booth. At the booth, shoppers can when purchasing fruits and vegetables from vendors.
The Roots Project runs one of those听markets. It’s called The Crop Shop, and it’s held in the parking lot of the state鈥檚 second-largest public housing complex, The Towers at Kuhio Park.
On the other side of the housing complex, the program manages a garden where community members can grow food and reap the harvest.
They focus on growing traditional edible and medicinal plants from Pacific Islands and Asia, including breadfruit and malunggay trees, taro, lemon grass and Asian greens.
鈥淎ll foods which bind people from quite disparate parts of the Pacific together and create a shared sense of community,鈥 said听Dr. David Derauf, KKV鈥檚 executive director.
Disproportionate Health Problems
A booth at two farmers markets might not seem like much, but the grass-roots effort is instrumental in听addressing health disparities among听communities.
鈥淲hen we talk about the diets for many of us who live in Kalihi or are from Kalihi, a lot of it is based on the value menu meal at the local fast food place,鈥 Noga听said.
Growing up, heathy food was scarce. He was grateful for meals of听canned corned beef or pork and beans, but later came to understand that what nourished him also caused damage.
鈥淲hat you have now is large amount of Pacific Islanders who have these detrimental health impacts because of their diets,” he said.
It鈥檚 an injustice, says Noga, who now works as a community organizer and senior program manager for the 听in Hawaii.
A host of illnesses disproportionately affects Native Hawaiians and Pacific Islanders, resulting in shorter life expectancies than other groups, according to a by the .
In Hawaii, the study found, they suffer from diet-related illnesses, including diabetes and hypertension.
It also found that diabetes rates among听Native Hawaiian and Pacific Islanders in the United States are three times that of Caucasians.
Hawaii has seen renewed interest in locally grown produce in the last two decades, but access remains difficult for many people who cannot afford such products听at restaurants and stores.
鈥淭hat model doesn鈥檛 really trickle down,鈥 says Jesse Lipman, the community food programs coordinator at KKV.
Corner stores around Kalihi accept , a form of food stamps, but many听don鈥檛 offer fresh produce.
鈥淎 lot of these stores that accept EBT, they don鈥檛 sell healthy food,鈥 said Lawakua Joy of the Roots Program. 鈥淭hey sell a lot of junk food and some even accept EBT for alcohol and cigarettes.鈥
In two years of working at the Roots Double Bucket Booth, Joy has seen the program slowly gain popularity as shoppers learned they could turn up to $20 of food stamps into $40 worth of听fresh produce.
He says 30 to 40 people take advantage of the offer during a typical farmers’ market.
Grants from and Connecticut-based nonprofit have made the booth possible.
Wholesome Wave partners with 31 organizations to create booths that double snap dollars at 425 farmers鈥 markets across the U.S. The programs rely on federal funding from the U.S. Department of Agriculture鈥檚 .
The Roots Program started听its benefits program in 2011 at a farmers’ market run by the city鈥檚 program. Some听25 farmers markets across Oahu accept EBT cards for produce, but only the two markets in Kalihi offer the Roots Double Buckets Booth.
These markets also help Hawaii鈥檚 small farmers, who are听often left with produce they can鈥檛 sell to grocery stores. The produce might be overripe or blemished, or simply be a type that doesn鈥檛 appeal to grocery store customers.
鈥淲e鈥檙e taking some products which aren鈥檛 sexy enough for Whole Foods or whoever else, but people want it,鈥 Lipman said.
A Culturally Relevant Garden
When discussing the programs KKV offers, Derauf emphasizes the importance of food beyond nutrition and caloric intake.
鈥淔ood is really at the core of so many of the things that connect us to each other, to our ancestral past,鈥 he said.
The experience of growing, preparing and serving food as a community is critical to developing a sense of well-being.
Kalihi hosts听a large population of immigrants from Micronesia, where rising sea levels and a lack of economic opportunity are prompting many to seek new lives in the U.S. including Hawaii. Derauf calls Micronesia an example of “the consequences of colonization and the disruption of the traditional food systems that existed.鈥
To create a sense of place in a community of displaced people, staff at The Roots Project transformed a vacant concrete lot in the housing complex into a community garden.
The organization doesn鈥檛 sell any of the produce grown in the garden. Instead, it鈥檚 given to people who volunteer their time tilling the soil, and to passersby.
鈥淥ne of our visions is that that whole area transitions from ornamental plants or trees to food-bearing plants and trees,鈥 Lipman said.
For a while, lilikoi vines covered the fence around the garden, and passersby could take what they wanted.
Across the street is Liniapuni Elementry School, where 85 percent of students qualify for free or reduced-price lunch, according to data from the state Department of Education.
On Wednesday afternoons children visit the garden after school to water plants, feed rabbits and play. They laugh with each other and speak in their native tongue.
鈥淭he idea is eventually, you create a culture of abundance,鈥 said Lipman.
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