Drop by the Manoa Marketplace for breakfast or lunch and you’ll find long-time residents talking story around tables or waiting in line for a pastry.
Some can still recall a time when听cows roamed the very same lot.
Tucked behind the University of Hawaii’s flagship campus, the shopping center is the Manoa Valley’s听only large commercial development. That’s just how locals like it.
Some things never change in the valley,听they听say. It’s friendly, quiet and rainy.
Lawns and hillsides teem with vivid green bushes, shrubs and trees. Trek deeper into the valley听and you’ll find multi-level residences at the end of steep, winding driveways.
Many residents’ roots here date to the 1960s, and their听homes are imprinted听with the architectural flair of decades past.
But the swelling cost听of housing听has morphed听this one-time family suburb bustling with kids听into听an older, more well-to-do neighborhood where multigenerational homes are common.
Still, breezy Manoa, its skies often streaked with rainbows, is a stark contrast from the hectic King Street and University Avenue intersection just a few minutes away.
The Manoa Marketplace has a laid-back vibe, and business owners gush about their patrons. They’re听cordial, easygoing and often stop by just to chat.
Just ask Ester Sisson, who owns Edible Arrangements with her husband.
鈥淭he people here are great,鈥 Sisson said. 鈥淚 mean it鈥檚 Manoa, c鈥檓on.鈥
The University As A Neighbor
Manoa is just northeast of urban Honolulu, and UH-related traffic can make it challenging for locals to get around.听With听roughly 20,500 residents, according to 2014 ,听morning and afternoon commutes can be rough.
Beyond the street congestion, the university generally meshes well with the rest of the community.
College students have a reputation for getting rowdy, but they butt heads with residents less than you might expect.听Despite听being Hawaii’s听largest听campus, UH Manoa isn’t that much of a party place.
On-campus housing is situated far from most Manoa residents.
As many as half of the residents on the outskirts of UH are in their 20s, but Manoa’s overall median age, 41.2, is a few years higher than Oahu as a whole.
Census findings show the per capita income of Manoa residents ($36,146) is $5,000 higher than the rest of urban Honolulu and nearly $5,500 above the Oahu average. Median income in Manoa ($88,792) is nearly $30,000 higher than in urban Honolulu, and $15,000 more than all of Oahu.
But what really sets Manoa apart is the number of college graduates who live there, likely because of the proximity to the campus.
Fifty-six percent of valley residents have earned a bachelor鈥檚 degree, about 24 percentage points higher than the Oahu average, according to census data.
‘Small Town,’ Big Changes
Honolulu City Councilwoman Ann Kobayashi, a longtime Hawaii politician and Manoa resident, has deep roots in the valley. She said she听chose to raise her children in Manoa because it reminded her of her own childhood home in the Nuuanu Valley.
It鈥檚 a rainy, beautiful place with a small-town feel, she said. With a Safeway, banks and restaurants, the Manoa Marketplace allows residents to stay in the valley for their everyday needs.
Much has changed over the years, Kobayashi said, but Manoa remains a tight-knit community.
鈥淲e hope that Manoa can stay the nice, sleepy neighborhood like Palolo Valley,鈥 Kobayashi said, pointing to Manoa鈥檚 neighbor that is also within her City Council district.听
She once harbored hope that the UH-related traffic congestion could be solved by eventually extending the Honolulu rail system. But with the project’s current financial difficulties, Kobayashi is skeptical that the campus听will ever see rail.
Manoa residents, on average, are听older than the rest of Honolulu and Oahu 鈥 especially those in the back of the valley, where the median age is more than 10 years higher than the rest of Oahu, according to census data.
Kobayashi said elderly people who have lived in their homes for decades are often trusting and leave doors, windows and cars unlocked. Thieves, usually from outside the valley, target the area, she said.
But she said recent neighborhood watch efforts have increased awareness in the valley and locals are on the lookout for people casing cars or neighborhoods.
鈥淧eople are becoming more aware of what鈥檚 happening, and so (they) watch out for each other,鈥 Kobayashi said. 鈥淚 hope that鈥檒l help, it鈥檚 just unfortunate that the neighborhood is getting that way and that鈥檚 why a lot of people are afraid of more visitors coming in, like to Paradise Park.鈥
Kobayashi’s son, Manoa Neighborhood Board Chair Dale Kobayashi, moved to Manoa when he was 5. After living on the mainland for 25 years for work and school, Kobayashi knew where he wanted to return.
鈥淚t鈥檚 kind of like a small town atmosphere in the valley,鈥 he said. 鈥淎nd it鈥檚 obviously changed since I grew up in the ’60s, but it鈥檚 still very much like that.鈥
Because of rising costs, multi-generational housing is becoming increasingly common, he听said.
鈥淎 lot of guys I grew up with here, they鈥檙e living above their parents鈥 garage,鈥 Dale Kobayashi said.
Some residents haves created rental units on their properties to make living in Manoa affordable. He expects the number of rentals to climb.
He听said his is one of the only nuclear family households left on his block.
The neighborhood tends to be more conservative, Dale Kobayashi said, likely because it鈥檚 becoming older and wealthier as moneyed residents move in.
There are plenty of facilities for Manoa鈥檚 young people like baseball fields and gyms, he said, but perhaps the community needs to turn its attention to providing more services for seniors.
鈥淭he infrastructure of the valley is based on the way things were,鈥 he said. 鈥淭he way things are and the way things promise to be going forward are a little bit different reality.鈥
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