‘Bigger And Stronger Waves’ Are Perilous For Visitors
A body surfer is enveloped by the crashing shore break at Sandy Beach on Oahu. Photo by Cory Lum/Civil Beat

Sitting on a beach. Watching the waves break. Life is good.

The view in Hawaii might not be all that聽different from other beaches around the world, but Hawaii waters are distinct 鈥 something that may not be evident until you enter them.

The way the surf pounds and rip currents pull can be deceiving, experts say. Visitors who are unfamiliar with Hawaii鈥檚 unique ocean conditions take risks without even realizing it.

Chip Fletcher, associate dean at the University of Hawaii鈥檚 , says there are 鈥渢oo many鈥 tragic stories of tourists dying in Hawaii.

鈥淎 very classic situation is a family that has been tempted to come to Hawaii 鈥 convinced to come to Hawaii 鈥 because of its beautiful beaches with these tranquil white sands with palm trees,鈥 he said.

Be Prepared

鈥淭hese families get an image in their head, an attitude in their head that this is a lovely, peaceful and therefore safe setting 鈥 so we lure them right down to the water鈥檚 edge with this fantasy.鈥

In Fletcher’s聽hypothetical yet all-too-real scenario, a family gets up one morning at their hotel in Waikiki and goes to the famous Hanauma Bay on the east side of Oahu. But it鈥檚 Tuesday and the snorkeling mecca is closed 鈥 or maybe it’s a different day and the parking lot is full.

The next beach heading north around the curving highway聽is , which Fletcher says is arguably the most dangerous beach in Hawaii.

鈥淭he kids are whiny, they just want to get there,鈥 he said. 鈥淪o they take a quick look. If there happens to be a lull, they don鈥檛 look at it again and run right into the water.”

“Various versions of that story happen at beaches everywhere here.鈥

The Hawaiian archipelago is the most isolated land mass in the world. Unlike California or the eastern coast of the United States, there鈥檚 no continental shelf to dissipate wave energy before it reaches the shore, he said.

The聽water can be 2,000 feet deep less than a quarter-mile offshore in Hawaii.

鈥淭his allows for very strong ocean wave energy much closer than you would find on a continent,” Fletcher said.

As an island state, Hawaii also has waves approaching from all directions. The general rule-of-thumb is that the surf is bigger in the winter on the north shores and in the summer on the south shores, but there are exceptions 鈥 storms and winds that change conditions.

鈥淪o on any one particular beach you can get several different types of waves depending on what time of year it is and what the conditions are,鈥 Fletcher said.

A woman struggles in the pounding waves at Sandy Beach where the shore break is one of the most treacherous in the state. Cory Lum/Civil Beat

At Sandy’s on Oahu or Hapuna on the Big Island, where there鈥檚 little in the way of a shallow reef offshore, waves break directly on the beach.

鈥淚t doesn鈥檛 take a very large wave to become a potentially fatal situation if it鈥檚 breaking right on the beach,鈥 Fletcher said. 鈥淎nd anyone can wander down to the water鈥檚 edge.鈥

When the waves are crashing farther offshore, it takes some skill to reach them.

鈥淭here鈥檚 a natural filtering process in terms of who鈥檚 exposed to the waves that are breaking,鈥 he聽said. 鈥淚f waves are breaking right on the beach, like at Sandy鈥檚, it can expose anyone to like a pile-driver effect of picking up the human body and slamming it down on the beach, especially head-first.鈥

The oceanographic and topographic conditions at Kaanapali Beach on Maui make it one of the most deceptive — and treacherous. Marina Riker/Civil Beat

Cary Kayama, who has been working in the field of ocean safety for the past 21 years on Maui and is now the county鈥檚 ocean safety supervisor, said the on-shore topography and other conditions set Hawaii apart.

鈥淲e鈥檙e in the middle of the Pacific Ocean,鈥 he said. 鈥淚n California, the beaches kind of slope gradually and are wider. You can walk 30 feet out and be in waist-deep water.”

鈥淚n Hawaii, it drops off really quickly and that has an effect on the waves,鈥 he said. 鈥淭hey鈥檙e bigger and stronger, and there鈥檚 a stronger rip current. The topography of the land makes a difference, plus we鈥檙e prone to the trade winds and some currents.鈥

Further complicating non-residents鈥 understanding of Hawaii鈥檚 waters are the lulls between waves, which can range between聽30 seconds and聽15 minutes.

Waves crash against the shore at Kilauea Point on Kauai. Hawaii’s ocean conditions are not like anywhere else. Nathan Eagle/Civil Beat/2016

The swells also affect rip currents, not just shore breaks. Rip currents aren鈥檛 unique to Hawaii, but their power can be.

In California, rip currents might not be in the same place each day because they鈥檙e often formed by sand bars. They鈥檒l change with low and high tides, making it a challenge to predict where they鈥檒l be ahead of time, Fletcher said.

That type of rip current exists in Hawaii, too, at places like Kailua Beach, he said, but there are also rip currents in the islands flowing through channels in the reef.

These topographically fixed rip currents are easier to locate, but the strength of the water flowing through the rocks can be harder to predict.

鈥淭hose can be especially strong, especially if the channel is deep and focused,鈥 Fletcher said, noting as an example the right side of Pipeline on the north shore on Oahu. 鈥淚t can flow like the Mississippi River and can be impossible to handle other than to just go with the flow.鈥

His recommendation? Go to beaches with lifeguards, and ask them about where it鈥檚 safe to be in the water. Also, check for local conditions.

Jim Howe explains Hawaii鈥檚 unique ocean conditions. 

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