Fanciful holes punched into a thick concrete railing look like bubbles. A sculpted masonry support column 鈥 a splayed 鈥淗,鈥 or an abstracted human figure reminiscent of a squat Hawaiian petroglyph 鈥 rises from a Japanese rock garden to support the landing of a simple exterior stairway. An inverted vee-shaped concrete awning that peaks above the roofline shelters another exterior stairway on the same two-story medical office building. It鈥檚 a small wonder of gestural insouciance.

These bits of expressive delight hide in plain sight among a jumble of low-rise medical-office and apartment buildings erected in central Honolulu鈥檚 Pawaa district in the 鈥50s and 鈥60s. They鈥檙e buildings we all know…and ignore.

Appreciating them took an organized architectural tour called 鈥淎 Peek at Modern Pawaa,鈥 presented in early October by a hui of local architecture buffs known as the Docomomo US/Hawaii chapter. The tour featured eight buildings, all within a compact, four-block area just makai of King Street and just west of its intersection with Kalakaua Avenue.

King Center, 1451 King St., 1960, Takashi Anbe, architect. 漏 2015, David Franzen Photography

About 30 people showed up on a sunny Saturday afternoon for the two-hour tour. The event kicked off in the lobby of the Pagoda Hotel, on Rycroft Street, with an introductory talk by architectural historian Don Hibbard, who, with architect and author Dean Sakamoto, founded Docomomo Hawaii four years ago.

Hibbard explained how the landowner, the Bishop Estate, cleared the makai section of the Pawaa/Kaheka area of its cramped old lanes, wooden cottages and farms for redevelopment in the early 1950s, when the city widened King Street and removed the avenue鈥檚 old, wood-frame storefronts. The post-war, pent-up demand for convenient professional offices and homes quickly filled the void.

Docomomo Hawaii, part of the national Docomomo advocacy organization, now has about 60 members and more than 1,100 Facebook followers. The name is a contraction of the group鈥檚 mission, which is the 鈥渄ocumentation and conservation of buildings, sites and neighborhoods of the Modern movement,鈥 according to Alison Chiu, an architect with the Honolulu firm of Fung Associates and current president of the non-profit group.

鈥淎ll the modern buildings in Hawaii, built in the post-war years through the mid-1960s when Honolulu grew so fast, are at least 50 years old now,鈥 Chiu explained.

鈥淭here鈥檚 a lot of renovation and demolition going on, and we鈥檙e concerned about losing our prevalent building style from the statehood period. We want to raise awareness, study and document them, and treasure them, and just be a resource for people who want to learn more about them.鈥

“We鈥檙e concerned about losing our prevalent building style from the statehood period.” 鈥 Alison Chiu, president of Docomomo Hawaii

The group has put its online. The Pawaa “peek” was its fourth annual tour. Previous ones included a visual survey as seen from the top floor of the Capitol building, a tour of Kapiolani Boulevard鈥檚 鈥淢iracle Mile鈥 between Ward Avenue and Atkinson Drive, and a walk-around of Makiki鈥檚 cluster of post-war apartment buildings adjacent to Makiki District Park.

Architect Sid Snyder, the longtime business partner of the late, great Hawaiian modernist Vladimir Ossipoff, is one of the Pawaa tour鈥檚 six docents. The architect stood in front of the monolithic, 11-story Sandalwood Apartments, at 910 Ahana Street, and delivered a nuts-and-bolts mini-lecture about the innovative, pre-cast concrete building, designed by architect John Tatom in 1960.

He started by admiring the building鈥檚 strong vertical expression, its inset lanai, and the projecting 鈥渇ins鈥 at each聽corner that steel the building against the lateral forces generated by winds and earthquakes.

He talked about how the Sandalwood, built in 1963, was the first high-rise condominium in Hawaii; and how it鈥檚 a 鈥渟ingle-load鈥 structure with exterior corridors, because 鈥渢hey weren鈥檛 doing air conditioning then 鈥攖he air just blew in one side of your apartment and out the other,鈥 he said. 鈥淵ou control it with jalousies and windows.鈥

The stolid building鈥檚 floors and walls were assembled out of pre-cast slabs, engineered by Alfred Yee, a pioneer in pre-cast concrete construction not only in Hawaii, but around the world.

鈥淗e鈥檚 still around, at 90,鈥 Snyder noted.

Next up was a five-story office building, the King Center, designed by Takashi Anbe in 1960. It鈥檚 that sort-of iconic, gold-anodized, offset cube of offices on the makai side of King Street.

1523 Kalakaua Ave., 1959, Takashi Anbe, architect. 漏 2015, David Franzen Photography

Docent Julie Lam, an architect, pointed out the freestanding, expressionist concrete portico that seems to be dancing in front of the building on King Street. She led us into the glassy lobby to admire a sensational, abstract-expressionist ceramic mural by Isami Enomoto, the Honolulu ceramicist behind much of Oahu鈥檚 familiar 鈥 if disappearing 鈥 public-park signage and those brown, curly-cue,聽鈥70蝉听glazed-tile wall panels at the airport.

A true modernist, Takashi Anbe was born in Wailuku in 1925, got his architectural engineering degree from Washington State University, and trained under the great Pete Wimberly. In addition to King Center, he鈥檚 also responsible for three other buildings on the tour, including the suave, low-rise Liona Apartments on Ahana Street, built in 1961, and 聽a well-worn medical office building with an inconspicuous lava-rock frontage at聽1532 Kalakaua Avenue. It鈥檚 this singularly modest building that showcases the flourishes I described earlier 鈥 the bubbles, the petroglyphic column, the vee-shaped awning.

All four Anbe buildings were designed for builder Herbert T. Hayashi, who put up several office buildings and apartments on acreage leased from Bishop Estate. Hayashi鈥檚 centerpiece, the Pagoda Hotel, was built around a pond off Rycroft Street by architect Hideo Murakami and engineer Harold Tanimura in 1964.

Other Anbe credits include the Astronomy and Plant Science buildings on the University of Hawaii at Manoa campus; the underground Honolulu Municipal Building Parking Lot, built in 1979; and the starkly elegant Maui Prince Hotel, built in 1986.

At the six-story Continental Hawaii Building on the corner of King and Kalakaua, docent John Williams brandished an enlarged, vintage photo of the Continental when it was new, before the ground floor was substantially altered. In the old photo (see the gallery), everything about the building is so schematic it looks like a crisp Bauhaus dream.

鈥淚 mean, it鈥檚 textbook Modernism,鈥 the docent said. 鈥淚t鈥檚 like, what鈥檚 the building about?鈥 He went into some detail about the freestanding stairwell and elevator shaft pulled away from the building鈥檚 mass as its own vertical element.

鈥淭he building is intact, he said, 鈥渂ut they took out the contrasts of stone and glass on the first floor, so now it鈥檚 a monochromatic building.

鈥淚t could all be brought back.鈥 鈥 John Williams, Docomomo Hawaii board member

鈥淚t could all be brought back.鈥

Williams, a retired architect from San Francisco and avid historian who recently joined the Docomomo Hawaii board, noted that the Continental鈥檚 penthouse once had an ocean view; and that the attached, double-decked parking lot was a first in Hawaii.

After the tour, I talked to Graham Hart, a young architect who just got his doctorate in architecture from UH-Manoa. He鈥檚 now working at WCIT Architects in Honolulu, and joined Docomomo recently.

鈥淚t was awesome,鈥 Hart told me, 鈥渁 fun way to spend a Saturday afternoon. Granted, I鈥檓 an architectural dork.鈥 He laughed.

What turned him on, I asked.

鈥淗ow Docomomo found this little concentration of cool buildings that I鈥檝e driven by a hundred times and never noticed,鈥 he said. He cited the Asian- and tiki-inflected details on buildings like the Pagoda and 1523 Kalakaua, the use of lava-rock walls and A-frame motifs.

鈥淭he Modernism you find in Honolulu isn鈥檛 like the dry, International Style Modernism you find on the mainland,鈥 he says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 modern, but in a fun yet functional way that bridges back to pre-contact times.

鈥淭hey didn鈥檛 rely on air-conditioning as much, so they used deep overhangs, outdoor stairs and corridors 鈥 cool design elements that are fun to look at but functional too.鈥

Fun, gestural buildings. Outdoor everything. Architectural insouciance. Gracious, mid-sized, modest housing designed for the trade winds. Indigenous materials…a real sense of place. Is it too much to ask?

1523 Kalakaua Ave
Watch Slideshow Click here for a slideshow. Curt Sanburn

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