These are days of provocation and resentment in North Korea.

Over the last several weeks, the Pyongyang government has fired a series of short-range missiles into the ocean and suffered humiliation as China鈥檚 president made his first visit on the Korean peninsula to Seoul rather than further north.

And, according to South Korea鈥檚 Chosun Ilbo newspaper, official word has gone out that Choco Pies should not be made available to North Korean workers. Yes, Choco Pies.

You may not be familiar with the role of the humble Choco Pie in the economic, political and propaganda rivalry between North and South Korea. You may not even be familiar with . But the story of how these snack treats have inserted themselves into geopolitics on the Korean peninsula is worthy of consideration.

Choco Pies have become a part of the intense propaganda war between North and South Korea.

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Choco Pies themselves are not particularly remarkable. Since the 1970s, they鈥檝e been produced by two South Korean companies, Orion and Lotte Confectionary; and the name pretty much suggests their composition. A Choco Pie is made up of two very dry cookies with marshmallow or cream filling in between, and the entire affair is covered with chocolate.

Within the family tree of snack food, Choco Pies would be cousins of that staple of the American south, the Moon Pie (the one that鈥檚 covered with chocolate and made by the Chattanooga Bakery in Tennessee 鈥 and not to be confused in any way with the Asian seasonal treat known as Moon Cake).

To say that giving Choco Pies to North Korean workers proved to be a popular idea would be like saying tourism has brought a few dollars to Hawaii鈥檚 economy.

Choco Pies are also relatives of the Japanese 鈥淎ngel Pie,鈥 first produced by Morinaga in the 1950s. More later on the corporate side of Choco Pies 鈥 but first let’s look at their more direct place in contemporary Korean capitalism.

Ten years ago, the governments of North and South Korea embarked on a bold experiment called the . It鈥檚 a set of factories in a North Korean city close to the demilitarized zone. About 125 South Korean companies run production facilities there, using more than 50,000 North Korean workers to turn out products from clothing to footwear.

There have been complications over the years, notably when the complex was shut down last year for five months due to sharp political tensions between Pyongyang and Seoul.

But one constant over the past decade has been the role of Choco Pies.

One of the initial rules of the government agreement was that South Korean factory owners could not give North Korean workers cash bonuses. From the beginning, North Korea鈥檚 government took a very large cut of the workers鈥 pay, and overtime and production rewards were never part of the deal. So the owners decided to give Choco Pies as bonuses.

To say that giving Choco Pies to North Korean workers proved to be a popular idea would be like saying tourism has brought a few dollars to Hawaii鈥檚 economy.

Choco Pies took on lives of their own as a sort of underground currency. And to journalists looking for insights into the closed world of North Korea, some of the claims about the role of Choco Pies have bloated into the policy equivalents of urban myths.

The facts themselves are crazy enough.

Google 鈥淐hoco Pie North Korea鈥 and you can spend hours sifting through the results.

The Choco Pie phenomenon is pretty well established. Google 鈥淐hoco Pie North Korea鈥 and you can spend hours sifting through the results. Western media organizations from CNBC and the BBC to the Washington Post and the London Review of Books have covered Choco Pie developments in North Korea for a number of years. A senior defense analyst at the Rand Corporation has given a number of interviews on the topic, as have authors of political and historical tomes about North Korea.

Advocacy organizations have released balloons in South Korea to carry Choco Pies over the border. But CNN quoted one 鈥減rominent鈥 North Korean defector involved in such efforts , 鈥淭he Choco Pies are not ideal for the balloons, because they weigh too much and crumble.鈥

Earlier this year in New York, artist Jin Jo Chae held an exhibit called, 鈥淭he Choco Pie-ization of North Korea.鈥 Highlights included a gold-plated Choco Pie and melted chocolate smeared .

The exhibit was noteworthy enough for the Korea Society, a nonprofit that works to build bonds between the U.S. and Korea, to聽 to produce a studio on the topic.

The actual cost of a Choco Pie in North Korea may have been exaggerated by some breathless reporting. Published estimates for the cost of a single “pie” have ranged from a low of 80 cents to a peak of $24 when the Kaesong Industrial Complex was temporarily closed last year. Yes, $24 for a single Choco Pie seems a bit far-fetched, especially when the CIA estimates that per capita income in North Korea is $1,800 a year. That means a single Choco Pie would have cost 16 percent of the average person鈥檚 monthly income during the factory shutdown.

Whatever the price of a black-market Choco Pie, the propaganda value is great. As South Korea鈥檚 Chosun Ilbo newspaper two weeks ago, 鈥淧yongyang appears concerned about the impact the snacks have had on the North Korean public as the products inundate open-air markets.鈥

As for origins, the Moon Pie was created in 1919 as a snack for coal miners in the southern United States, so the Choco Pie鈥檚 tie to manual labor is something of a natural evolution. Historians say the concept came to East Asia when U.S. troops brought Moon Pies to the Asia Pacific.

Sort of makes you wonder about a potential diplomatic role for spam musubi.

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About the Author

  • Bill Dorman
    Bill Dorman is News Director at Hawaii Public Radio. He lived and worked in Asia for 10 years, covering stories from more than a dozen countries and territories for CNN and Bloomberg News. His broadcast experience also includes work in New York and Washington, D.C. His 鈥淎sia Minute鈥 feature can be heard weekday mornings on HPR.