This is a lament about my favorite local hangouts that have become tourist traps.

I am not saying that is good or bad. It鈥檚 just a fact of life when you live on an island where tourism drives the economy.

The Internet is responsible for some of the invasion of local places. We were once able to keep our hangouts secret, but now they are recommended by Facebook friends and highlighted on travel and food websites.

A businesswoman I know told me that old-fashioned word-of-mouth advertising once brought her dozens of customers but today getting mentioned on the Internet brings her hundreds of clients. Others say thousands.

People waiting outside Eggs ‘n Things on Kalakaua Ave in Waikiki.

PF Bentley/Civil Beat

Author Francine Prose would call bemoaning the loss of local restaurants to tourists a first-world problem 鈥 a rich people鈥檚 problem.

Maybe so, but I feel like venting.

And my friend Carol Wilcox, who likes to vent, too, says it is no trivial matter when locals start getting mad at tourists for invading their places. Wilcox says 鈥淚t erodes the aloha spirit.鈥

I no longer visit places with long lines of waiting tourists, including Eggs ‘n Things, Bogart’s on Monsarrat and聽Cafe Kaila in Market City.

I am happy the restaurants are doing well, but also sad that some of them are difficult to get into without waiting 45 minutes.

How do we locals know when one of 鈥渙ur” favorite haunts is doomed?

Wilcox explains, 鈥淵ou know a place has gone over the edge when you see buses in front dropping off tourists.鈥

Travelers arriving in tour buses long ago doomed the Saturday Farmers鈥 Market at Kapiolani Community College. The same goes for the hike to the summit of Diamond Head.

But now restaurants are crossing over, especially little local eateries specializing in breakfasts.

鈥淵ou know a place has gone over the edge when you see buses in front dropping off tourists.鈥

Super chef Ed Kenney, the owner of Town Restaurant, says 鈥渇or some reason Japan tourists like the big Hawaiian-American breakfasts.鈥 Kenney says that鈥檚 interesting when you consider the traditional Japanese breakfast consists of light foods like pickled vegetables and rice and miso soup.

But Yumi Ozaki, a Honolulu public relations executive specializing in the Japan market, says it is easy to understand. 鈥淛apanese love anything and everything from Hawaii.鈥

Ozaki says Japanese customers have been pancake lovers for a long time, enjoying their own Japanese 鈥渉otcake,鈥 pronounced 鈥渉otto keeki鈥, as a snack food.

Cafe Kaila, famous for its waffles and pancakes, has been off my eating list for at least a year. Tour buses pull up in front of the eatery at Market City in Kapahulu. Lines of customers wait patiently in front for 30 or 40 minutes for waffles covered with fresh strawberries and eggs Benedict.

Hats off to Kaila鈥檚 management for at least trying to appease waiting customers by serving them free samples of the cafe鈥檚 famous Belgian waffles and cups of iced water. But, still, it鈥檚 crazy. Who is going to wait in line for 45 minutes for a couple of apple pancakes? Not me.

Cafe Kaila is so popular with tourists that the company has opened a branch in Tokyo. Other Hawaii breakfast joints also opening outposts in Japan include Eggs 鈥榥 Things, Cinnamon鈥檚 and Moke鈥檚 Bread and Breakfast, both of Kailua.

When I told Honolulu ad man Sean Morris I was mad about losing my old haunts, he responded in an email, 鈥淚 think it is fascinating this this simple breakfast boom has in turn generated revenue streams for local mom-and-pop businesses just trying to make an honest living. And it creates bigger hopes for them for a franchise in Japan with all the bells and whistles of a licensing agreement.鈥

True, but I want to turn back the clock and enjoy long, relaxing Saturday breakfasts in my former hangouts.

Eggs n鈥 Things used to be a favorite place for many local residents when it was located at the far end of Kalakaua near the McCully Street Bridge.

Says marketing specialist Melissa Chang: 鈥淩emember the old days when it was the place for locals to go after a night of clubbing? Now their clientele is 10 percent local, 20 percent mainland, and 70 percent Japanese.鈥

I stood in line recently with mostly Japanese tourists for more than 30 minutes at Eggs 鈥榥 Things at its Waikiki location at 2464 Kalakaua Ave. in the hopes of enjoying the fabulous pancakes of my youth, which were once served with a delicious homemade orange zest syrup. But forget it. The once moist pancakes are now dry and are served on paper plates with plastic utensils. The fabulous orange zest syrup is gone. Plus, you have to pay a lot of money at any Eggs n鈥 Things restaurant.

My friend Jackie Kido says: 鈥淲ith the tourists, the prices at Eggs n鈥 Things Ala Moana have gone way up. With tip, almost $40 breakfast for two.鈥

Bogart鈥檚 on Monsarrat used to be a local favorite for its wonderful breakfasts and acai bowls. Not anymore. Waits can exceed 30 minutes just to get up to the counter to order and then you must wait again for the food to come to your table 鈥 that鈥檚 if you can get a table.

Former customer Molly Wilkinson sighs, 鈥淟onging for an acai bowl at Bogart鈥檚, but not worth the wait.鈥

Sweet E鈥檚, a cafe specializing in breakfast and lunch at Kilohana Square in Kapahulu seems to have avoided the tourist mobs with the majority of its customers remaining local residents or tourists who come one and two at a time in rental cars.

Owner Ethel Kim Matthews says she hasn鈥檛 seen tour buses pulling up. 鈥淲e haven鈥檛 come to that yet.鈥

Sweet E鈥檚 is difficult for tourists to find and has limited seating.

Matthews’ brother Marshall Kim says, 鈥淎t the end of the day, we would rather have local customers because they will be here forever.鈥

Yet, I am just waiting for Sweet E鈥檚 to fall.

Other favorite neighborhood restaurants my friends say they have abandoned include Morning Glass in Manoa, famous for its macaroni and cheese pancakes. And Moena Caf茅 in the Koko Marina Shopping Center, now crowded with mainland tourists who stop by on their way back from the Koko Crater hike or Hanauma Bay, lining up to wait for the French press coffee and massive banana Chantilly pancakes.

And it isn’t just restaurants that have fallen. Bakeries, too. Libby Antone of Kapahulu says she used to go to Leonard鈥檚 in Kapahulu to buy her doctor a box of malasadas, but she hardly ever does now because of the long lines of tourists. 鈥淚t is good for Leonard鈥檚 business but annoying,鈥 says Antone.

Town Restaurant in Kaimuki should have been mobbed by tourists long ago but thankfully it still is not.

I asked owner and chef Kenney why Town has remained relatively tourist free. Kenney says, 鈥淚 don鈥檛 know. Maybe because the restaurant was created intentionally for local repeat clients.鈥

He says food fanciers from the mainland make up about 10 to 15 percent of his business each night. He says they are the kind of people who make their restaurant reservations first and then reserve their air flights. But he hasn鈥檛 seen tour buses or large groups from Asia. He has one Japanese-speaking server for the few Japanese customers who come for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

鈥淚 hope we don鈥檛 get infiltrated by tourists. I love seeing the same people all the time,鈥 said Kenney.

Support Independent, Unbiased News

Civil Beat is a nonprofit, reader-supported newsroom based in 贬补飞补颈驶颈. When you give, your donation is combined with gifts from thousands of your fellow readers, and together you help power the strongest team of investigative journalists in the state.

 

About the Author