KANEOHE 鈥 For those who’ve climbed up the Haiku Stairs all the way to the stunning Puu Keahiakahoe summit to take in the view of the lush Koolau mountain range, the experience could seem, well, priceless.
The main impediment to doing so, in recent years, has been the early morning wake-up necessary to sneak in before a security guard arrives at his post at the road below. His job is to prevent people from climbing up.
There’s also the back way for those who want to sleep in. The risk there are wrong turns and narrow ridge lines that make footing all the more important.
But the obstacles to climbing the “Stairway to Heaven” are growing. For one, it now requires a $1 million insurance policy.
Even at that cost, nothing is guaranteed.
On Monday, Honolulu City Council members Joey Manahan, Kymberly Pine and Ikaika Anderson planned to hike the 鈥淪tairway to Heaven,鈥 which has been off-limits to the public for years. (This hasn鈥檛 stopped adventurous trekkers from waking up in the middle of the night to slink up the ladderway before dawn.)
Manahan, who heads the city鈥檚 Parks Committee, has been exploring the possibility of reopening the stairway to hikers. But in doing so he鈥檚 inadvertently stepped into a bureaucratic quagmire that could keep one of Oahu鈥檚 most alluring trails off the maps of hikers 鈥 at least officially.
Just after sunrise Monday, Manahan, Pine and Anderson met in the parking lot of Kaneohe District Park. Manahan and Anderson had traded in their work suits and lei for t-shirts and running shoes. The former sported boardshorts and a bag slung over his shoulder. Pine was equally as sporty, wearing a dark baseball cap, sunglasses and athletic apparel. Together they looked ready for a hike.
The council members had planned the meeting for weeks, even on Aug. 7. They planned to investigate the stairway in accordance with Hawaii鈥檚 , which regulates when elected officials are allowed to meet to discuss policy matters.
But before they reached the actual stairway, their hike was cancelled by the Honolulu Board of Water Supply. It was a matter of jurisdiction. The board had just taken over responsibility for the metal stair case.
鈥淐ertainly, we didn鈥檛 expect this,鈥 Manahan said. 鈥淚 didn鈥檛 think it was going to be this difficult.鈥
For years, the city assumed the stairs were the under the purview of the Honolulu Parks Department, which had paid a private firm to hire the security guards who patrol the base of the trail to turn trespassers away.
It turns out that the city was wrong. City officials had done some research after Manahan proposed his resolution and found out it鈥檚 the Board of Water Supply 鈥 a semi-autonomous city agency 鈥 that has control over the stairway. And the board has some strict rules when it comes to walking on its turf.
Manahan had invited the Friends of Haiku Stairs, a nonprofit made up of volunteers, to act as a tour guide for the council members. The nonprofit has long enjoyed city-approved access to the stairs to do maintenance, pick up trash that hikers have left behind and fight off invasive species.
But last week the Board of Water Supply asked Friends to provide proof that the nonprofit had a $1 million liability insurance policy. This was in addition to asking its members to sign two lengthy waivers, one of which said access to the stairs would be prohibited, making the need for an insurance policy pointless.
While council members didn鈥檛 have to provide the same proof of insurance 鈥 they are covered by the city 鈥 they still weren鈥檛 allowed access to the stairs under the board’s rules.
(Civil Beat was also asked to sign the same waivers and provide proof of a $1 million policy. We declined.)
So instead of climbing the 3,922 steps to the top of the Haiku Stairs, the council members rode in a shuttle to the locked entrance. They also explored possible sites for initial trail access that would cut down on conflicts with a nearby neighborhood.
Honolulu Mayor Kirk Caldwell has said that resolving this neighborhood dispute is a key step in reopening the stairs to the public. The city has planned to make hiking the stairs legal in the early 2000s 鈥 even spending about $900,000 to revamp the trail 鈥 before ultimately backing off that plan.
Vernon Ansdell, who is president of Friends of Haiku Stairs, said the council鈥檚 interest in re-opening the stairs gives him hope that a solution can be found to open up the unique hiking trail.
That said, he鈥檚 concerned with the board’s $1 million insurance policy requirement and the fact that it has effectively blocked all access to the stairs. Together, he said, these restrictions could be seen as tactics to keep his nonprofit from continuing its maintenance work on the trail.
鈥淚t鈥檚 potentially a complete showstopper for us,鈥 Ansdell said. 鈥淚f they start putting up all these barriers and we can鈥檛 do any of the work that we normally do, it could be it for us. … They鈥檒l just let the steps fall into disrepair.鈥
Still, he wants to give the city and the Board of Water Supply the benefit of the doubt.
鈥淚 remain cautiously optimistic that this is a conservative group of people who got freaked out by the potential responsibility,鈥 Ansdell said. 鈥淎nd I hope it鈥檚 only a temporary thing.鈥
The board鈥檚 top administrator, Ernest Y.W. Lau, told Civil Beat that the agency has the same policy for all its properties.
Any private group, whether its media or nonprofit, must provide the same $1 million liability insurance certificate, he said. Lau added that stairway management is a new endeavor for his agency since it took over from the parks department, and it is something that will likely be revisited.
鈥淲e鈥檒l be in discussions with Friends of Haiku Stairs,鈥 Lau said. 鈥(But) we have to make sure the liabilities are gone.鈥
Whether this means the stairs will ever fully open up to the public, however, remains uncertain.
Anderson said Monday that the debate over the Haiku Stairs has raged on for at least a decade. Much of the back and forth has to do with complex land ownership issues, he said; the city, state and Kamehameha School all have property in the vicinity.
鈥淚鈥檓 not confident that we鈥檒l get all the agencies, city, state and private, to reach a consensus,鈥 Anderson said. 鈥淥ver the past ten years we have come nowhere close. If history tells us anything it鈥檚 that there鈥檚 no consensus at all to open the stairs.鈥
This is true at the Honolulu council level too, Anderson said. He doesn鈥檛 have a sense of what direction the nine-member council would lean if it was forced to make a decision on the stairs. But he also noted that the final say doesn鈥檛 rest with the council.
That鈥檚 up to the mayor, he said.
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About the Author
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Nick Grube is a reporter for Civil Beat. You can reach him by email at nick@civilbeat.org or follow him on Twitter at . You can also reach him by phone at 808-377-0246.